2002 CRV Ex - original owner - ~ 100K.
Drive 5K year.
Light duty.

Stuck passenger rear caliper.
Assuming it really is - with PB / kroil etc and attempting rebuild - without many tools...

Going to do all of the rears - calipers, pads, rotors, hoses. And might as well do the fronts but not calipers.


I think Ive got a good idea how to do it all... but seeking a few suggestions on options around brand/part as well as paying someone to do the labor

rear rotors were turned 8/2012 at 80K. acquired new honda bought [I used to work at honda business office in atlanta and got stuff at 20% off] pads were installed then. that was the last turn on the rotors. to thin and now the heat with the caliper sticking its not worth f'ing with.

***any thoughts on a reasonable price for rotors/brand is appreciated ***
***same question for pads - was just going to buy the honda 'kit' with all the clips and guides and silcone package @$50 each*** even though it is cost more, it's complete and it's piece of mind - or is that not a real thing and I'm just paying extra for it? (it was a real things with parts for some of my other cars in the past to get OEM instead.)

Open to buying rotor/pad package

Open to buying caliper (semiloaded to get all the hardware)/pad package

Open to buying local or internet. I get the pros of a national chain incase we move from NJ to wherever and need to do a warranty swap. But wow the savings from Rockauto over Azone/Napa/Advanced/Pep is significant.

- Any brand or parts, to avoid?
- How low can you go price wise and get the standard performance as if it rolled off the line?

Inquiry #2 - Mechanic literally across the street will charge me $80/hourly rate (NOT BOOK RATE) to do the labor.
So, how long would it take an experienced person to do the above - with power tools - and a lift? 2 hours? Will he agree to a maximum amount in advance or is that rude and also causing potential upfront inflation on the time.
No warranty on the parts if you bring them to him and he is local only, but he has to be able to do it better and faster than me, right?

Time is money... and no running around to by jacks, stands, vac pumps, or bad back, torn knuckles etc. and then taking it apart if I do 1 thing wrong. I still have to buy it local or order it. Thanks for the opinions.

I gotta decide on parts (and tools) today so I have all I need (via shipping eg rock or local store) for next Tuesday when temp hits 65.

- Also did the reardiff back in 8/2012, 20K ago. should that be done again, now, even if no noise/clunking?

If you have links to step-by-step or some vids on the procedure - from hoses to calipers and proper cleaning/silicon grease and bleeding (given taking off the hoses all around), is also appreciated... in case I do the work myself or at least try to help the guy across the street (he wont rent me a bay after hours - but I had to ask if it was a possibility.). Thanks!

 

welcome to the forum. the easy way and quick is to get a rebuilt unit. I have overhauled calipers several times it is not fun.

 

- Any brand or local store you suggest (azone has lifetime warranty on somethings?) or brand/price level to avoid?

- How low can you go price wise and get the standard performance as if it rolled off the line?

 

I use auto zone, duralast is the brand they carry, the rotor only has a 2 yr warranty but the brakes have a life time, so get the ceramic brake pads. after a few months, take the old rotor if not gouged by metal to metal and the brake pads and swap for new. now you will have a standby new rotor, and new brake pads for the new change. the only thing I don't like of the brake pad ware is the black dust. you may need to shoot out the black dust from the pads about every 3 weeks, do this before your first drive of the day, only with cold brakes. beaware the rotors will have a fine coat of rust after you wash, it goes away when you first apply your brakes. no problem

 

normal ware on the original is about 40k miles, check it more often if heavy pedal driver. my Fit goes 2 years on front brakes and still has lots of ware to go. price about 120.00 2 rotors and gold brand brake pads. if you go to their internet site, it will give you all the items they have and price.

 

tomorrow putting calipers / rotors / pads on back of 02 CRv Manual tranny (skipped brake lines, none in stock locally and need to do this on Tuesday)
bought new brake fluid
also bought new front rotors and pads - if I have enough time I'll do them tomorrow. Otherwise sometime in the next 2-3 weeks.

Any last suggestions or Order Of Operations, things to do from BEFORE the initial "lifting of the car (eg loosen all wheels?) to the initial lifting on to car stands eg - one side versus the other make a difference / use hand brake or not), to the school of thought on brake fluid replacement - eg gravity and let them drip ALL FOUR AT ONCE and then later when bleeding it's 1 at a time?

If I only do the rears does the entire car need to be lifted and level? eg in terms of anything to do with brake bleeding [OR checking level of Manual Tranny or Rear Diff fluids?]
Of course I would also need to bleed the fronts [LF/Rf, RR/LR] too so that is easier if lifted.
One person said to bleed them when the calipers are removed and hanging as low as possible with the valve pointed Down? Opinioins?

Thanks!!