I decided to make a new thread, as the original thread is off track to what my original problem was, and maybe this will get some answers or ideas going (it might make searching easier too).
I've got a 97 Accord 2.2L non-vtec with a 5 speed MT. The car has 234K miles, and is in pretty decent condition for a midwest car. I drove it home about 3 weeks ago (ran beautifully), and the next day it wouldn't start (it does turn over). The PO said he thought the fuel pump was going on it (it had failed to start for him before I bought it). I replaced the pump, but that didn't fix it, as it still won't start and run. I did a full tune up on it consisting of a cap, rotor, wires, plugs, and even a coil, and I do have spark (verified that earlier today). I also replaced the timing belt and balance shaft belt, just because I don't know when they were last done (they were worn out too), so I know it's in time, and the cam is moving. Today I tested the main relay according to the FSM, and it's good (I also hear the relay click, pump run, then relay click off (cel light on during that time too, and cycling with the relay). However, when I jumped the test port (to read the codes), all I got was a solid cel light (no codes or a "0" code). This points to the ECU as being the fault. Right? Or am I missing something? I did check to see if I had power on the 2 yel/blk wires going into the ECU, and I had battery voltage there.
Any help you can offer is appreciated. Thanks.

 

Ok, I have an update for those who are reading this. Today, my new/tested good ECU arrived, and I installed it. Turned to key, and it fired up, only to shut itself off. So I pushed it off to the side for now. Had a few beers to think about things, then popped the hood, pulled off the vac hose to the brake booster, and gave it a 10 second shot of satan fluid. Fired right up, and ran until it was done burning that stuff.Tried it again, did the same thing. Added a longer hose, and shot it again, and the car would run as long as I sprayed the fluid to it. Is this a clogged fuel filter? You know, something unheard of on a Honda? Or is this an ignition switch that doesn't let the pump run in the start/run position? Or is the main relay not letting the pump run when the cel light is off? Can I jump something, or back trace the pump wiring to determine whether the pump stays running when the key is in the "on'" position? It's obviously a fuel issue, and it's got a new Denso pump installed, so it's not a pump problem. But the pump is so quiet that I can't hear it hum while the engine is running. HELP?? I really need to get this car going.

 

Well here's an update for those following my problem. I did finally get a Honda adapter for the fuel log, and was able to test the fuel pressure. It's within spec (44-46 psi after 2 seconds, and 36 to 38 psi while cranking over/running on starting fluid). So that's not the problem. By working thru the troubleshooting section in the FSM, I've found that the CKP/TDC sensors are dead (no resistance on either 1 of them), and those trigger the injectors. Naturally those were the last things I checked, as I ran thru the other stuff already, and that stuff was all good. It would run on starting fluid because it was shot into the plenum, and then fired directly into the cylinders, because I still had spark. I've got 1 on order, so my next step will be working on getting the timing cover halfs off, so I can work on changing it out when it arrives. I'll report back when I find out IF this finally fixes it.

 

Here's another update, I got the sensors today, and got them installed. No change, still no run. I guess at this point I have 2 choices. Either part the car out, or take it to the dealer and see if they can fix it. I'm not getting much help here, and I've run out of ideas on what to try. Plus, I've ran the entire list of troubleshooting that's in the FSM.

I knew I should have bought that Camry instead.

 

Well, I thought I'd post up an update to this thread. I spent the weekend back probing the ECU, and learned quite a bit from doing so. I did do some more testing, and found that I actually had no power to the injector resistor assembly (had an open wire). Brought 12 volts over from the battery, and it fired right up. So, I ran a new wire out to it, and made a more permant fix out of it, along with running the power from the main relay (thru the fuel pump circuit), and called it good to go. I also let it run a while, and it didn't throw any codes. I guess that means I fixed it.

Just thought I'd post up my solution, in case someone else has a problem that's similar.

 

Good job! Looks like you solved it by your own.

 

Well, I did have a couple of guys on the Honda Accord Forum help me out by letting me bounce some ideas by them. That was a big help in trying to narrow down my actual problem. I just mainly needed some direction/ideas on where to look, and spent a bunch of time with the FSM and a VOM trying to make some sense of the readings I was getting. It was both a learning experience, and a bunch of time. At least I didn't have to send it to the dealer to be fixed.