2005 Honda CRV Parasitic Draw
 

Have had problem with battery going dead after sitting awhile or sometimes just a few days. One time it drove fine to an appointment. Wife stayed in car and used radio for about 30 minutes and then it wouldn't start. Had Advance Auto check battery. No problems that they could find. I have finally checked it for parasitic draw. Meter started out at .34A and finally down to .01A. Checked all fuses. #22, front passenger side window is a problem. Pulled the fuse and meter shows no draw. Question now is what do I do? It isn't the switch because I disconnected it and there is still a draw.

The window motor. Unplug it and see. Motors get draw when the brushes go bad.

Thanks. I'll give it a try.

I sent you a Private message concerning this. Trying to understand

Was the motor the problem?

I Have no clue. I was not the one with the issue. I am only try to understand why you think motor brushes would cause a parasitic draw. I cannot see this. Worn brushes would cause poor motor operation but not causing a parasitic (current drain when not in use) current draw. Is there something I am missing here? I did not want to post this where everyone could read it.

Parasitic drain
 

I haven't dealt with this yet. I'm not eager to pull the door apart but I'll get to it. I appreciate the feedback. I went out today and the Honda CR-V started right up with plenty of juice. All I have done is pull the fuse for the passenger side window. Looks like doing that has also caused my driver's side window not to work.

If I remember right then there should be a switch in the circuit which would prevent current draw.

The OP states that at first there is a 340 milliamp draw which is normal for a vehicle that is still active. Then it goes down to 10 milliamps which is perfectly fine. A draw of 50 milliamps or below is acceptable.
Honda uses a smart charging system which has a tendency to under charge the battery. The alternator does not provide a charging voltage while there is little to no electrical load. It just keeps the voltage close to 12 to 12.5 volts. When there is an electrical load such as headlights on then it will ramp up the charging to 13.5 to 14.5 volts. Suggest running with headlights on. And have your alternator and battery checked. A battery that is consistently under charged will tend to loose capacity.

Do you operate the vehicle for short periods or short distances? If you do then the battery may not get enough time to charge from the alternator?
​​​​​​​It is possible that the relay is stuck or switch is bad. But, seeing only 10 milliamp or 0.010 amps is perfectly normal.

Good info Thanks!

Went out today and pulled the power to the window motor on the passenger side. Still having parasitic draw. Furthermore...even with the fuse pulled for that window, NOW it still has a parasitic draw so maybe I made a mistake. I'll have to go back and pull all the fuses again, I guess.