Blown head gaskets
 

I have a 2011 3rd Generation CRV that I bought used in the Philippines for my girlfriend. Shortly after purchasing the car, it over heated and would not start. A mechanic replaced the head gasket. Since then we have replaced the radiator, condensor and the head gasket twice. We have also had issues with the AC. The last time the car failed was 1 day after the third head gasket replacement. It didnt overheat, it just would not start. There is water in the oil again. Obviously, there is a bigger issue here. Has anybody had any experience like this or have any suggestions? Since I am a foreigner in the Philippines it is difficult to get an honest opinion at times from mechanics here. The car only has 80,000 km on it. I paid $8000 US for it and thought I got a great deal. Since then, I have put $4000 into it and no it sits idle in the driveway.

I am not a mechanic but did have that issue many years ago and the cultrit was a warped head causing the blown gaskets.

I have heard that this may be the issue. Did you have it repaired?

Yes, but it was in the 70’s and can’t remember what they did. I think they milled the head and re-installed.

Okay. I don't remember anything from the 70's but it was fun

If there was a blown head gasket then the engine must be taken out and the engine block needs to be resurfaced. Cutting a few thousandths off to make it flat again. Then the head itself must be taken care of. Valves and spring checked. Timing and new head gasket. The cooling system then must be cleaned and refilled. It is a lot of work and lot of money. If you have the resources to do this then great. But, if a head gasket went on my car, it would be the end and I would be looking for another vehicle. Maybe you can sell it to someone who can fix it. Good luck to you.

Boat Anchor
 

I feel some sympathy for you being that you are a foreigner in a very different culture.

To answer your Q directly, I would seriously question any recommendation from someone who replaced a blown head gasket for the third time. In the vernacular, the term might be kamote.
So no, I have never been in your position.

My suggestion(s):
1. Determine what caused the critical overheat in the first place and decide if fixing it is feasible.
2. You are asking for specific suggestions however you use an abstract term such as “water in the oil”.
Is it really water? or maybe coolant? or was there never coolant in the cooling system? You need to figure this out.

Running an engine with contaminant in the oil usually ends in catastrophic failure so good thing it did not start.

3. Lets say you get to actually repairing the blown head gasket. If you overheated the engine to the point of actually warping the block, you will need to take the block and the head to a machine shop (consider a short block at this point). Sitting in your driveway tells me that this discussion is not something within your wheelhouse.
However, before renting a tent and engine hoist, you might want to check the block for warpage using a straight edge and feeler gauge along with checking for cracks with a dye penetrant. You can check the head the same way however I would suggest you take it to a reputable automotive machine stop anyway if you are going to have a shot a fixing it and the block is still good.

4. What do the valves look like? Have you run a compression check? Is the water pump and oil pump functioning normally? I suggest you consider the residual damage that was caused by the terminal failure along with the economics of fixing it correctly.

Having lived on an island I know that the price of poker is higher. All things to be considered however, as an alternative, parting out a non repairable 2011 in your local can help recouping the investment rather than trying to pedal an anchor.

The math is yours as is the decision…
Good luck.

Anytime you do a head gasket you should check the head and deck for level. Quick and easy with a straightedge. If not you need to machine 10 or 15 thousandths off.