2001 honda crv b20b swapped no start. No spark no fuel help!!
Okay so recently swapped my high milage motor out that ran with a low mileage b20b. The car cranks but wont start. Fuel pump is not priming when key is turned over and I'm not getting any spark. I have a jumper harness for an 8pin to a 10pin harness on my dizzy and I did the ckf bypass for the no crankshaft sensor. The grounds are all good and the ground on the thermostat housing is good and tight. The ecu and fuel pump fuses are also good. I'm stumped any help would be great as the car had fuel and spark before motor swap.
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Helpppppp!
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welcome to the forum. have you reset the ecu? one way is to remove the positive and negative terminals off the battery, keep terminals away from the battery posts. place the two terminals off the battery together for 10-20 seconds and then reinstall the terminals one at a time. then try to start it. if it starts, let it run for 10 min or until the cooling fan turns on. ( do not let the engine overheat )
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Originally Posted by acmech52
(Post 34036)
welcome to the forum. have you reset the ecu? one way is to remove the positive and negative terminals off the battery, keep terminals away from the battery posts. place the two terminals off the battery together for 10-20 seconds and then reinstall the terminals one at a time. then try to start it. if it starts, let it run for 10 min or until the cooling fan turns on. ( do not let the engine overheat )
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Update: check engine light dint come on at all when key is turned to on position. Rpms dont bounce when cranking and the main relay dont seem to be doing any clicking or getting any power. Like I said though everything was functioning before swap
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did you get a chance to reset your ecu, it needs to learn your new engine. having the battery disconnected for an engine change is good and safe.
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Originally Posted by Jmashanic30
(Post 34040)
Update: check engine light dint come on at all when key is turned to on position. Rpms dont bounce when cranking and the main relay dont seem to be doing any clicking or getting any power. Like I said though everything was functioning before swap
So, now need to determine if there is power and ground going to the ECU. Need schematic to find pin out. Otherwise how to determine which pins to check? See if ECU relays have power. Next would be to check to see if there is a 5 volt reference voltage Sometimes it can be shorted and shut down the ECU TPS throttle sensor usually has a 5 volt reference Wait, swapped out old motor for this one? Same type motor? ECU? Looking for compatibility issues?? Did new engine come with harness? Sometimes connector pins get bent Could check connectors for problems |
Originally Posted by avisitor
(Post 34044)
Okay, the first thing I was going to ask was if the check engine light comes on when turning the key to the "ON" position.
So, now need to determine if there is power and ground going to the ECU. Need schematic to find pin out. Otherwise how to determine which pins to check? See if ECU relays have power. Next would be to check to see if there is a 5 volt reference voltage Sometimes it can be shorted and shut down the ECU TPS throttle sensor usually has a 5 volt reference Wait, swapped out old motor for this one? Same type motor? ECU? Looking for compatibility issues?? Did new engine come with harness? Sometimes connector pins get bent Could check connectors for problems |
Sounds like the ECU isn't being powered up??
I don't have any schematics so it is difficult to tell you what to look at next. Maybe an ECU relay?? |
Originally Posted by avisitor
(Post 34047)
Sounds like the ECU isn't being powered up??
I don't have any schematics so it is difficult to tell you what to look at next. Maybe an ECU relay?? |
Check out the main relay.
If ground side switched then two hot and one ground The fourth is the Switch. Wait, did you say that the fuse was not getting 12 volts? |
Originally Posted by avisitor
(Post 34051)
Check out the main relay.
If ground side switched then two hot and one ground The fourth is the Switch. Wait, did you say that the fuse was not getting 12 volts? |
I forget that Honda has a different type of main relay.
There is actually two relays inside The ignition switch controls the power to turn on the relay to power the ECU And then ECU controls the ground side switching energize the relay to power the fuel pump So you have no power to the ECU or fuse Which is why there is no check engine light which first turning the key to the "ON" position Which tells me that the relay is suspect. The main relay has 8 pins of which pin number 6 is not used Pin 1 is to battery Pin 2 is to ground Pin 3 is to ECU power up Pin 4 is to st. switch Pin 5 is to Ignition switch Pin 6 is not used Pin 7 is to fuel pump Pin 8 is to ECU control fuel pump There are plenty of videos on youtube about the main relay issues. Would do a little more testing before deciding to repair or replace part. Good luck |
Originally Posted by avisitor
(Post 34059)
I forget that Honda has a different type of main relay.
There is actually two relays inside The ignition switch controls the power to turn on the relay to power the ECU And then ECU controls the ground side switching energize the relay to power the fuel pump So you have no power to the ECU or fuse Which is why there is no check engine light which first turning the key to the "ON" position Which tells me that the relay is suspect. The main relay has 8 pins of which pin number 6 is not used Pin 1 is to battery Pin 2 is to ground Pin 3 is to ECU power up Pin 4 is to st. switch Pin 5 is to Ignition switch Pin 6 is not used Pin 7 is to fuel pump Pin 8 is to ECU control fuel pump There are plenty of videos on youtube about the main relay issues. Would do a little more testing before deciding to repair or replace part. Good luck |
Originally Posted by Jmashanic30
(Post 34061)
If I remember right my number 4 pin is the one that isn't used cause I did pull it off to have a look at it. But I'll definitely look further into it just seems weird how it would go bad after I just changed the motor and wanted to do the initial start of said motor when it worked on old motor two days prior.
Think pin 4 can just hang according to the schematic for the main relay. Not sure. But, it should have 12 volts when trying to start engine According to the internet, the main relay has known issues with solder joints cracking However, since connectors were taken off and put back together, I tend to believe some pins might have bent. But, I don't know. Please let us know if you find the problem. |
Originally Posted by avisitor
(Post 34062)
Yeah, it is strange. So this is why I suggest to look deeper into this before changing any parts.
Think pin 4 can just hang according to the schematic for the main relay. Not sure. But, it should have 12 volts when trying to start engine According to the internet, the main relay has known issues with solder joints cracking However, since connectors were taken off and put back together, I tend to believe some pins might have bent. But, I don't know. Please let us know if you find the problem. |
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