97 Civic LX Bogging under 3000rpm
To start off I'd like to say: 1. First time on these forums 2. I know very basic mechanical work. (my brother is the mechanic not me ) So I may have posted in the wrong forum and may be hard to work with.
I have a 97 civic LX with 171k miles, D16y7 I believe. Daily driver nothing spectacular. No CEL or codes being thrown. I have some no name 4-2-1 header because the stock one was cracked and the o2 goes into the lower end of where 2 connect right before it connects to the other 2. The spark plugs/wires/dist were changed about 50k ago but I checked anyway and they seem to show my car is running rich. The car stutters sometime right on start up and other times about 20 seconds down the road. If I don't floor it; it basically keeps doing it the whole time. When I do floor it and keep above 3000 for a bit of time; it stops all together, but the rpms slightly drop - go up - drop - go up for a little bit. I think it may be the primary o2 but don't want to rule out anything else, and want to be somewhat certain before I start changing a bunch of things. Not sure if this matters but I thought o2's put out between .1 & .9 (not sure): At idle the primary o2 is running voltages at high end 1.--v's and low end 2.--v's. At idle the secondary o2 is running ~0.80v Any questions feel free to ask. Again sorry if I'm in the wrong forum or hard to work with Solution Primary O2 |
My first guess is the IACV. If you remove it and clean it with a tooth brush and brake clean the problem is usually solved. Another thing i do when my Hondas have idle issues, is to spray carb cleaner all around the intake manifold and throttle body. If the idle changes, you know you have a Vacuum leak.
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Okay thanks. I was gonna try'n check the MAP Sensor and primary o2 after I get off work on thursday and I'll try to check that anywhere from thursday to monday. Been to a couple forums with suggestions here and there and it's really helping to get the troubleshooting started. I'll see what I can do over this weekend and check back. Thank you.
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No Problem! Good luck. Always remember the acronym "KISS" (Keep it simple stupid) While working on cars, It will save you a lot of time and money.
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I haven't gotten to the IACV yet, but have checked these so far.
Testing Map sensor: Voltage: I tested incoming voltage for 5v from each of the side prongs and got 4.97 & 3.55 Continuity: N/A (The voltmeter I used didn't have cont. for some reason) Sensor Test: The sensor showed 2.8v. When blowing into it; the voltage went up. (Also it appeared that the sensor had oil on the end of it.. I assume that's not good) Primary O2 Sensor: (I forgot to take my printed FMS papers to test it fully but I'm going right after this update to test it) I used a Snap On Solus Tester (I believe) Volts on start up : Mid to High 2.--V I revved the car and it started bogging. Volts after bogging: .7 - .9 |
What is your TPS reading?
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Can't remember and I'm not sure when I'll be able to check. (Hopefully Friday) Can only test Friday - Mondays. :/ My brother was unplugging everything and plugging it back in and most of it seemed to show a reaction. (IACV - idled harder. Stuff like that) Can't recall the tps though. I will have to check. Will also clean the IACV on Friday if I can.
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Couldn't get into the garage this weekend. Bleh. :( Might just end up buying a few things without testing. I'm sure it doesn't hurt to replace some things even if that isn't it.
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Haha just not enough hours in the day!
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I was told by a guy with a 98 that this happened to him and it was his ignition coil. I had a problem with mine about a year ago and replaced it, but I still want to test it.
Fuel filter, dist cap, rotor coming in tomorrow. Coil seems easy to test so i think I'll just test it before I go replacing it since it's fairly new. Can't remember where I put my meter.. Hoping to get into the garage soon. Feel like I'm taking too long to do this. |
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