New To Hondas, And I Gotta Do A Crank In My GS-R Block. HELP!
 

so i traded my '89 jeep cherokee that i built, 4.5" of lift, 33's, for an 88 CRX with a GS-R block, B16 head, and JDM B16 LSD trans. its bored to 81.5mm with type R pistons, its got an RMF header, skunk 2 intake manifold, 70mm TB, etc. or atleast thats what the guy said it had. i believe all of the above to be correct on the car but it turns out he was full of you know what about most everything else. car needs some work. but ive been gettin stuff done. anyways it needs a new crank now. i was drivin home one night when i heard some crazy noises and turns out the harmonic balancer was tryin to jump off the crank. well the woodruff (spelling?) key must have sheared off or something and the balancer was ruined. all worn down on the inside. the crank looked like it had a tiny bit of damage where the woodruff key sits but i got a new balancer (or a used, good one) and threw it on there with a new woodruff key to see if it would hold. still wobbles like a mother. so im thinkin the crank got worn when the pulley was wobbling on it that one night. enough to where no matter how hard you tighten the pulley it still will wobble. so i got a GS-R crank for $100 of craigslist. had it turned for $25. ive never pulled a motor or done a crank, but it really doesnt seem too bad. i got a cherry picker and an engine stand in my garage that im borrowing from a friend. i took about 30 pics of the engine how it sits now for when i have to piece it all back together and plug stuff in. now there must be some guru on here who has a few words of advice for doin a crank. anyone?

-Sean

yes i have done many crank pulls lol... you want to start off by pulling the intake and exhaust manifolds then the head first.. dont try and pull the whole motor at once.. make sure you label as much as possible and put nuts/bolts in a labeled bag.. pull the oil pan after the head.. slowly strip all the excess hoses making sure you can remember where they go then pull the wiring harness connectors off remembering where they go.. then move to the shift linkage then the drive system.. pull the motor out and remove the diffferential and tranny.. flip the motor if you have to put it on the floor put it on something soft and pull the crank and replace it..

i just have one question.. no rudeness inteded but how would the showroom be able to tell him to remove a crank?

idk? showroom???? and how come you removed the intake mani? i didnt have to....

EDIT: and the head? why the head? the valve cover maybe? to remove the timing belt. why not just unplug all hoses and wire connectors, remove the radiator so you dont ding it up. remove the header, pull the motor, seperate the motor and trans, remove the pressure plate, clutch, and flywheel, then unbolt the crank, and flip it and finish removing the crank? no need for head removal unless i am mistaken...?

your right with the bottom end crank change only. trans, pressure plate off and the oil pan and you're there. Might get a manual or specs on the torque for the crank and piston caps.