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Idle surges after replacing plugs wires and rotor

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Old Aug 6, 2009 | 10:03 AM
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Default Idle surges after replacing plugs wires and rotor

Hi, Check engine light came on so we had Autozone check it. It indicated a cylinder missfire.
Its a 98 accord EX coupe with 135,000 miles so I replaced the plugs, wires, dist. cap and rotor.

When I restarted it surges at idle now. goes from about 1,200 - 1,750 rpm back and forth...

Any suggestions?

Thanks

Steve Rivet
 
Old Aug 7, 2009 | 02:53 AM
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welcome to the forum. if cold, idle control valve, if warm throttle positon or map sensor
 
Old Aug 7, 2009 | 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by acmech52
welcome to the forum. if cold, idle control valve, if warm throttle positon or map sensor
Thanks for the reply...

Could I have caused this while replacing the plugs, wires and distributor?

It happens when cold. I just started it after the changes and only ran it for a couple of minutes.

Its my mission this weekend.

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Old Aug 8, 2009 | 02:12 AM
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could be possible, parts do get bumped while working on a vehicle engine, not on purpose. Or it could have just have happened without touching the plugs/dist
 
Old Aug 11, 2009 | 12:19 PM
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I may be getting in over my head at this point?
Its surging when cold.
I'm trying to locate the idle control valve, Searched the net and my chiltern book to no avail...

Any way you can help to find the idle control valve on this 98 V6 accord coupe?

steve
 
Old Aug 12, 2009 | 02:21 AM
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the idle air control valve in underneath the throttle body. You will need a manual to do this due to hoses to remove, throttle body to take off, then turning the body unside down you will see the idle air control to clean. Or you can try it. I always suggest owners get a service manual if they intend to save money and fix the car themselves.
Not hard to fix cars to a point.
 
Old Aug 12, 2009 | 12:41 PM
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welcome to the forums. did you replace or remove the distributor at all from the head?? if so you could have accidentally advanced or retarded the timing when putting it back on causing the idle surges... But i would still check the Idle Air Control Valve to be safe
 
Old Aug 12, 2009 | 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by 91haydenSI
welcome to the forums. did you replace or remove the distributor at all from the head?? if so you could have accidentally advanced or retarded the timing when putting it back on causing the idle surges... But i would still check the Idle Air Control Valve to be safe
I took the cap off ( two screws ) Replaced the rotor and replaced with a new cap. Looked to me like the rotor and the cap could only go on one way?
And I know I have the wire in the correct spots.

Come to think of it, I did have my wife jog the engine key to turn the rotor so I had access to the screw to remove it. Could that have screwed me up?

This accord is my wife and I's 3rd vehicle so I dont need it right away. Its just sittin in the driveway. Sooo I'd like to take a crack at fixing it myself but I am more of a PC repair guy than auto repair...

Do you mean to get the factory repair manual? VS the chilterns they sell at ADAP??? If so, where could I get one and roughly how much are they?



Thanks

Steve
 
Old Aug 15, 2009 | 01:53 PM
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no that shouldnt affect anything.. i have never looked in a chilton book i prefer haynes but it still should have something about the idle air control valve. if this helps you any http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/se...Value=Standard you should look for that valve on the back of the intake manifold.
 
Old Aug 16, 2009 | 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by 91haydenSI
no that shouldnt affect anything.. i have never looked in a chilton book i prefer haynes but it still should have something about the idle air control valve. if this helps you any http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/se...Value=Standard you should look for that valve on the back of the intake manifold.

Great! the link to a pic confirms I have located the correct part..
Started the car again and it ran fine for about 2 minutes than started the surging idle again.
The Idol Air control valve looks ok , as in, no hoses loose or missing. and the electrical hookup looks solid.
Is it safe to remove and examine?

Steve
 



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