Worth fixing? 05' Accord, electrical and exhaust issues (?)
 

Hi, new here, not unfamiliar with auto repairs.

Have an 05' Accord EX 2.4 I was gifted years ago, ~230k, needs work, still runs strong.

Went out to start yesterday, turned over, started right up, but then, 2-3 seconds later, would die. Tried 2-3 times, same thing.

Background:
Over summer got P0420 "O2\Catyltic coverter code (engine light) that I was able to get through inspection running 2 bottles of gas additive through. A month later, light came back, added another bottle, light still on, but throughout, car has been running fine, nothing obvious in performance, sound, etc... (I only drive around town)

Starter has been hickuping\hesitating part 3 years, but never stops.

So thinking either:
*dead battery (panel lights low, but engine turns right over and fires)
*dead alternator, and AutoZone guys sez "bad starter can kill alternator, you should replace both *plus* the batter, in that order", all of which I can have done (a local garage will do the work for time, and I can buy the parts)

*2 big questions:

A. can a plugged\malfunctioning cat converter and\or O2 sensor be "turning off" the car, once started, like that?

B. if not and the electrical swap seems like I could get another couple of months for $1k (out of work, trying to get into fall), can I
- pick up a new battery and stick it in,
- and will that get me ~5 mi. (10 mins) to the work place (so I don't have to have it towed)? (have historically driven many miles with bad alternator, knowing it'll eventually drain the battery until I can fix it). But will an Accord run 10-20 miles on just the battery?

Not likely going to be willing to put new cat converter (so that's the first\main question), but if doing the electrical can get me moving, I should be able to have it all done for ~$700, which'd be worth it.

Like many broke-ass souls, just trying to get another season out of it, until the worm turns.

Thoughts?

Starts and dies. What is the theft light doing?

Is that the green Key light?

OK.... the green Key light doesn't do much, except blinks, after turning off the car.

But looks like it might have something to do with the Mass Air Flow sensor.... been scanning through FaceBook and one guys says "try disconnect the MAS" which I did, and sure enough... can now runs. So now question is: how deep do I need to go, to try and keep the car moving (reasonably). One guy tore the whole throttle body off and cleaned it all..... Suggestions? (obviously going to replace the sensor, air filter, etc...) anything you might suggest "while I'm in there?"

So I tried pulling codes with the MAF unplugged (the only way the engine will run) and got the following codes:

P0102 MAF Sensor Voltage Low (which makes sense, since the sensor lead was unplugged)

P0113 IAT Sensor Circuit High Voltage, IAT Sensor Voltage High, and Intake Air Temp (IAT) sensor circuit high voltage

So tomorrow am going to try: cleaning the MAF to see what that will do. And if that doesn't allow the car to start, will replace the MAF with an aftermarket (NAPA) unit (which I can get for $80; hesitant to immediately go for the $300 OEM\Honda unit, until I have a better idea if the MAF is the main issue.

Would like to ask: if the ECU were also "bad" (not sure if it has an "immobilizer" function) would that throw a code? (trying to take a step-by-step approach as best I can). At this point, if cleaning the MAF will allow the car to start and run, I'm reasonably golden!

And, unless I'm mistaken, it looks like the Air Intake Sensor (IAT) may in fact be part of the MAF, so hopefully either cleaning or replacing the MAF may do *something* (fingers crossed).

You have a bad MAF. If you unplug it the PCM will figure things using other sensors and it'll run ok. Plug it in and no go....it's bad.

Any thoughts as to whether the MAF can be cleaned or if I should just replace it? Anything else that might also help, on that front? Can I possibly get by with an aftermarket (NAPA) MAF ($80)? Only trying to get another 4-6 months out of the car.

Also: can I run it with the MAF unplugged (without bunging up something else) and for how long? (mostly just need to be able to run to the parts store, so maybe 20 mins, 5-8 miles?).

My daughter ran her car with the MAF unplugged for a long time. You may suffer a little mileage.