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-   -   clutch replacement help (https://hondaforum.com/forum/honda-civic-forum-12/clutch-replacement-help-7436/)

yuh-boy323 08-04-2011 06:49 PM

clutch replacement help
 
i have a 2004 honda civic ex 1.7L and i need to do the clutch, i need help on what i need to do aswell as the tools needed.. please help.

acmech52 08-05-2011 07:52 AM

welcome to the forum. go to this site, and it already has all the pic's and instructions done. HONDA-ACURA.NET the thread to go to is Civic Flywheel/Clutch Install (58pics)

stook00 09-02-2011 11:09 AM

Yuh-boy,

You are going to need a clutch friction disc, pressure disc, alignment tool, clutch pilot bearing and your flywheel has to be resurfaced- or replaced with a tasty lightweight unit :D Hondapartsnow.com sells all of these OEM parts for about under $200, so I'd go there to see all the components you need for the job.

Anywhoo, here is the procedure that I follow when changing 7th gen Honda Civic clutches:

1) Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2) Raise and safely support the vehicle.

3) Remove the transmission from the vehicle. Matchmark the flywheel and clutch for reassembly.

4) Use a flywheel ring-gear holder to lock the flywheel in position.

5) Remove the pressure plate bolts, 2 turns at a time working in a crisscross pattern to prevent warping the pressure plate. Remove the pressure plate and clutch disc.

6) Inspect the flywheel, disc, and pressure plate for wear, cracks, and warpage. Light scoring of the flywheel may be polished out; gouges, warpage, burn marks, cracks, or chipped teeth require replacement of the flywheel.

Note: If the flywheel is to be removed, but is going to be reused, matchmark it to the engine block prior to removal. Aligning the matchmarks upon reassembly will preserve driveline balance.

7) Inspect the flywheel's ball bearing: turn the inner race of the bearing with your finger, and be sure it turns smoothly and quietly. If the bearing is loose or noisy, or exhibits rough motion, replace it.

8) Remove the release fork boot. Squeeze the release fork retaining spring to disengage the fork from its pivot.

9) Remove the release fork from the clutch housing.

10) Remove the release bearing. Spin the bearing by hand to check its degree of play. Replace the release bearing if it has excessive play or is leaking grease.

11) Inspect the rear main bearing oil seal for signs of leakage. If necessary, replace the seal to prevent oil leakage onto the clutch's friction surfaces.

To Install:

1) If necessary, drive out the flywheel bearing, then use a suitably-sized bearing driver to install a new one. Use a crisscross pattern to tighten the flywheel mounting bolts in several steps.

12) Install or connect the following:

Clutch disc and pressure plate by aligning the dowels on the flywheel with the dowel holes in the pressure plate. If a new pressure plate is not being installed, align the matchmarks that were made during removal.

Pressure plate bolts, make them hand-tight.

http://content.chiltonsonline.com/co...s/7923FG99.gif

13) Insert a suitable clutch disc alignment tool into the splined hole in the clutch disc. Align the clutch and pressure plate.

14) Tighten the pressure plate bolts in a crisscross pattern 2 turns at a time to prevent warping the pressure plate. The final torque is 19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm).
Remove the alignment tool and ring gear holder.

15) Coat the mainshaft with heavy-duty high-temperature grease. The manufacturer recommends part No. 08798-9002, Honda super high-temp urea grease, but you can use any other brand of high-temp grease :)

16) Coat the release fork pawls and the inner race of the release bearing with high temperature grease and install them into the clutch housing. Be sure the release fork retainer spring snaps into place on the pivot. The bearing and fork must fit together properly and slide back and forth smoothly.

17) Coat the tip of the slave cylinder with grease. Install the release fork boot.

18) Install or connect the following:

Transmission, making sure the mainshaft is properly aligned with the clutch disc splines, and the transmission case dowels are properly aligned with the engine block.

Transmission case bolts: 47 ft. lbs. (65 Nm), sequentially

19) Bleed the clutch hydraulic system.

20) Adjust the clutch pedal free-play.

21) Verify that all engine and transaxle components are installed and connected properly.

22) Reconnect the negative battery cable.

23) Road test the vehicle.


Good luck man! ;)


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