This might be a little late in answering.
Yes, the bearing does get pressed back in.
Make sure the orientation is correct.
The darker side with the magnetic ring goes in to meet the ABS sensor.
Make sure the pathway for the bearing is clean
Put grease on the knuckle where the bearing goes in.
Wipe clean the area when done
Do not use the CV axle to try to press in the bearing as it might destroy the CV axle and/or knuckle.
It is not designed to do that. It will not go in straight and the axle will break on the knuckle.

 

ok current update.. pushing in the bearing. It keeps wanting to walk in one direction. Like as i turn the nut tighter, the bearing starts teetering more towards a side. Will it even itself out if i continue? Cause it seems like a major difference

 

It may go a bit to one side but should straighten out and go in straight. If it's cocked and gets harder to press start over.

 

will do. Im taking a break on it for today, it kept leaning to a side. Thinking i should resurface the inner diameter a small bit.. the smooth it out more. Any recommended grit sizes?

 

Bevel the leading edge on the knuckle. You'll need to use a power tool. To use paper will take many days and lots of paper. Shouldn't need to bevel it in to much.

 

Take a caliper (measuring device) and check the size of the hole and check the bearing.
When pressing the bearing back in, it should be straight and even. Walking to one side means the hole could be too small.
You do not want to bevel the hole. It will never be 100% circular.
You might want to freeze the bearing. Put it in the freezer for 24 hours before trying to press in.

 

Success!! Finally got the bearing in.. i did need to smooth the inner surface a bit but it still held really tight and ultimately it went in. Ive got the hub in as well but now im wondering what all the torque specs need to be for all the nuts i removed.. im getting no luck online.. any idea where i can find this stuff?

need:
lower ball joint w the castle nut
upper ball joint thats to the left (working on passenger side wheel)
3rd joint type nut that holds a stiff rod to the suspension shaft (not sure what its called)
17mil break caliper nuts (the ones that mount to the knuckle)
and the axle nut

i think this is it. I got the wheel nuts online, 80ft lb

 

Guessing, ..
Axle nut torque is about 130 ft-lbs
Lower ball joint/upper ball joint is about 35 ft-lbs
Caliper bolt is about 80 ft-lbs
Sway bar link is 18 ft-lbs
Lug nuts is about 80 ft-lbs

Note: All guesses.

 

He's close.
Use 50 lbs on the ball joints.