HELP! Trying to bypass the voltage regulator with HO Alternator
#1
02-11-2021, 02:49 PM
HELP! Trying to bypass the voltage regulator with HO Alternator
Hello, I reallllllly need some help. I have a 2014 CRV in which im installing an aftermarket stereo. I got an aftermarket alternator which is bypassing the PCM or ECM so I can increase my voltage, but the car is not recognizing I have an ALT and is throwing my AWD light on and disengaging my AWD. I've tried calling about 15 places today, nobody knows how I can get around this. Curious to hear if anyone here has done this before. The ALT is 1pin plug.
#2
02-11-2021, 08:36 PM
It is a higher ampere alternator and not higher voltage necessarily.
The manufacturer of the alternator should have instruction on how to hook it up
Then you need to know how the CRV is wired so as to get the proper inputs to the alternator.
The information you have provided is really not enough to help.
This may be why 15 places could not help you???
The manufacturer of the alternator should have instruction on how to hook it up
Then you need to know how the CRV is wired so as to get the proper inputs to the alternator.
The information you have provided is really not enough to help.
This may be why 15 places could not help you???
#3
02-11-2021, 09:42 PM
It isn't the voltage that gives you more power.
That is why the alternator is made for a nominal 12 volts system while putting out a higher amperage.
Of course, the alternator will put out a slightly higher voltage or the battery would never charge.
Your regular alternator has five wires for a smart charging system.
First is from the battery B
Second is the IG or ignition which is hot when on or start
This powers up the voltage regulator
Third is the L or alternator signal for warning "L"amp when the alternator fails
Fourth is the C or charge (rate) mode input to the ECM
Tells the ECM whether the charge mode is hi or low
Fifth is the FR or output from the ECM to the alternator
5 volts when no load and not charging
0 volts when heavy load and charging
Oscilloscope would usually show a square wave
But not at the extremes of charging or not charging
You will have to get a schematic of your charging system to identify wires
And what they do. Some seem to reverse the C and FR labels.
Would need to check with oscilloscope to verify?
The ELD (electrical load detector) has power and ground
And a third wire from the ECM. ELD pulls down or up the 5 volt reference.
Pulls down when higher load.
If the alternator was made for a CRV then electrically should take care of itself
If you wish to by pass the smart charging system then that would depend on you
That is why the alternator is made for a nominal 12 volts system while putting out a higher amperage.
Of course, the alternator will put out a slightly higher voltage or the battery would never charge.
Your regular alternator has five wires for a smart charging system.
First is from the battery B
Second is the IG or ignition which is hot when on or start
This powers up the voltage regulator
Third is the L or alternator signal for warning "L"amp when the alternator fails
Fourth is the C or charge (rate) mode input to the ECM
Tells the ECM whether the charge mode is hi or low
Fifth is the FR or output from the ECM to the alternator
5 volts when no load and not charging
0 volts when heavy load and charging
Oscilloscope would usually show a square wave
But not at the extremes of charging or not charging
You will have to get a schematic of your charging system to identify wires
And what they do. Some seem to reverse the C and FR labels.
Would need to check with oscilloscope to verify?
The ELD (electrical load detector) has power and ground
And a third wire from the ECM. ELD pulls down or up the 5 volt reference.
Pulls down when higher load.
If the alternator was made for a CRV then electrically should take care of itself
If you wish to by pass the smart charging system then that would depend on you
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