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01 Civix D17 engine won't start

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Old Nov 19, 2019 | 04:23 PM
  #1  
Albert Cox's Avatar
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Default 01 Civix D17 engine won't start

Bought a 2001 Civic EX coupe with the D17A2 engine with 160,000 miles. It ran great but no heater. Had a new timing belt and water pump recently but was blowing bubbles in the radiator. Head gasket was out. Backed it in the garage and pulled the head. The machine shop took 0.009 off the head to get it flat again. More than enough to make the gasket leak compression into cooling system. New MLS head gasket and new head bolts installed.

Got it all done and went to start it. It wanted to start and then failed to have any cylinders hit. Pulled the plugs and wet from gas. Got a new set of plugs, turned engine over a few times with no plugs to clean it out. Put in the new plugs. It started right up and ran well for about 10 seconds, then slowed and died. It started the second time for about 5 seconds. Engine will kind of try and start but will not. The plugs are wet. Compression test was done and at 110 pounds across the board. Rechecked camshaft to crankshaft and it is in time. EGR valve checked and closed tight.

This car ran in the door and now refuses to start and run. Currently there are no trouble codes but the P1298 code, bad electronic load device was on and has been replaced in the fuse box. Anyone heard of this before and how do I get it to run?
 
Old Nov 19, 2019 | 07:48 PM
  #2  
avisitor's Avatar
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Back to the basics
Check for spark??
Check for timing??
Check for fuel??
ETC.
 
Old Dec 18, 2019 | 08:02 PM
  #3  
Albert Cox's Avatar
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I found the issue.
Originally before replacing the head gasket, I had checked all head bolt holes, cleaned with Brake Clean and blew dry with air.
There was nothing in them.
I later found the head bolts were not turning fully into the block so the head was not being clamped down.
It was so loose, antifreeze was leaking into the cylinders.
The holes are deep and a tap would not go to the bottom.
I had to make my own tap from an old head bolt.
The bolts screwed almost to the bottom of the hole with the impact and stopped.
Then had to use a ratchet to force an additional turn of the bolts until the bolt bottomed in the block.
Unscrewed with the impact.
Nothing was found in the holes and nothing on the tap but the new head bolts now went easily to the bottom of the holes and bottomed out, as they should.
A new head gasket and retorqued three times.
Back together and it fired right up and runs well.
Unsure if the holes were not fully tapped to the bottom but in any event, the bolts were not going deep enough to properly clamp the head down.
Knowing what I do now, I could have used ARP studs, or merely put a machine washer under every head bolt.
Hopefully, if anyone does a head gasket, remember this and check your head bolts holes to make sure the bolts go fully to the bottom of the holes with no issues.
Live and learn.



 
Old Dec 19, 2019 | 12:12 AM
  #4  
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Thanks for the update.
After the machine shop milled the head, it took off 9 thousandth of an inch.
Enough so that the bolts did not want to clamp the head on tight.
Not expecting this would make it a tough one to solve.
Thanks for letting us know.
 
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