Multiple Issues
#1
Multiple Issues
I have a 2015 Sport. Everything started with a cel for evap leak, small. Changed the gas cap and that did nothing. Was going to look into the purge valve next but that is a pia to remove or even get to the plug to test voltage. I get no vacuum at the valve with engine running so guessing no voltage or valve stuck closed. Well I cleared the code and it came right back and went to check that it was the same code and the OBD II port is not working. Checked ALL fuses and everything is good. On top of this my interior lights will not come on unless the ignition is on. The "key in ignition" chime does not come on. The "headlights on" chime does not work, and the locks wil not work with the key either remotely or in the driver's door tumbler. Locks do automatically lock when driving off and will lock/unlock with door switches. Also car does not remember econ mode from one startup to the next and even though the econ light lights up when I hit it, the green/red circle around the speedo doesn't work and judging by shifting, econ mode is not working even though the green leaf is lit. Other than that the car runs great! Definitely not in any kind of limp mode. Soooo, my guess my problem lies in the ECU or the MICU or both. I'm hoping there is someone on here that is a tech that can comfirm or refute my diagnosis, or someone else who has actually experienced this themselves. Just seems like an awfully weird combination of issues. I'd actually would't be that concerned except that I can't lock my car.
#2
Not a tech and very little knowledge.
Just a little experience with evap leaks, small
First, your OBDII port not working, that could be a blown fuse.
Us a test light, clip to good ground, double check to make sure the test light works.
Then go to the fuse box and probe the fuses. The fuses have two test points on them.
Probe each one. If both turns on the test light then fuse is good
If only one side lights up then fuse is bad.
If no light then probably no power to fuse.
This should help lead you where the issue is with the OBDII
Could be a fuse, open wire or shorted wire??
Also, sometimes the OBDII connector (also known as DLC, data link connector) has pin 16 with no power
Google search OBDII connector for pin out.
Purge valve is usually in the engine bay near the in-take plenum
If you can take it out and apply 12 volts to see if it clicks
Then check to see if it opens and closes (holds a seal)
A small vacuum pump with a gauge would be handy
Good luck.
Note: In my battle against a small evap leak, I lost the war.
The rust got so bad that many hoses and connecters were damaged.
After replacing charcoal cannister and purge valves and smoke tests
The cars (yes, on the two vehicles I owned) had too much rust and had to dump them.
Could no way pass inspection. Nor were they safe to drive anymore.
Just a little experience with evap leaks, small
First, your OBDII port not working, that could be a blown fuse.
Us a test light, clip to good ground, double check to make sure the test light works.
Then go to the fuse box and probe the fuses. The fuses have two test points on them.
Probe each one. If both turns on the test light then fuse is good
If only one side lights up then fuse is bad.
If no light then probably no power to fuse.
This should help lead you where the issue is with the OBDII
Could be a fuse, open wire or shorted wire??
Also, sometimes the OBDII connector (also known as DLC, data link connector) has pin 16 with no power
Google search OBDII connector for pin out.
Purge valve is usually in the engine bay near the in-take plenum
If you can take it out and apply 12 volts to see if it clicks
Then check to see if it opens and closes (holds a seal)
A small vacuum pump with a gauge would be handy
Good luck.
Note: In my battle against a small evap leak, I lost the war.
The rust got so bad that many hoses and connecters were damaged.
After replacing charcoal cannister and purge valves and smoke tests
The cars (yes, on the two vehicles I owned) had too much rust and had to dump them.
Could no way pass inspection. Nor were they safe to drive anymore.
#3
Not a tech and very little knowledge.
Just a little experience with evap leaks, small
First, your OBDII port not working, that could be a blown fuse.
Us a test light, clip to good ground, double check to make sure the test light works.
Then go to the fuse box and probe the fuses. The fuses have two test points on them.
Probe each one. If both turns on the test light then fuse is good
If only one side lights up then fuse is bad.
If no light then probably no power to fuse.
This should help lead you where the issue is with the OBDII
Could be a fuse, open wire or shorted wire??
Also, sometimes the OBDII connector (also known as DLC, data link connector) has pin 16 with no power
Google search OBDII connector for pin out.
Purge valve is usually in the engine bay near the in-take plenum
If you can take it out and apply 12 volts to see if it clicks
Then check to see if it opens and closes (holds a seal)
A small vacuum pump with a gauge would be handy
Good luck.
Note: In my battle against a small evap leak, I lost the war.
The rust got so bad that many hoses and connecters were damaged.
After replacing charcoal cannister and purge valves and smoke tests
The cars (yes, on the two vehicles I owned) had too much rust and had to dump them.
Could no way pass inspection. Nor were they safe to drive anymore.
Just a little experience with evap leaks, small
First, your OBDII port not working, that could be a blown fuse.
Us a test light, clip to good ground, double check to make sure the test light works.
Then go to the fuse box and probe the fuses. The fuses have two test points on them.
Probe each one. If both turns on the test light then fuse is good
If only one side lights up then fuse is bad.
If no light then probably no power to fuse.
This should help lead you where the issue is with the OBDII
Could be a fuse, open wire or shorted wire??
Also, sometimes the OBDII connector (also known as DLC, data link connector) has pin 16 with no power
Google search OBDII connector for pin out.
Purge valve is usually in the engine bay near the in-take plenum
If you can take it out and apply 12 volts to see if it clicks
Then check to see if it opens and closes (holds a seal)
A small vacuum pump with a gauge would be handy
Good luck.
Note: In my battle against a small evap leak, I lost the war.
The rust got so bad that many hoses and connecters were damaged.
After replacing charcoal cannister and purge valves and smoke tests
The cars (yes, on the two vehicles I owned) had too much rust and had to dump them.
Could no way pass inspection. Nor were they safe to drive anymore.
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