I'm gonna lay everything out up to when the pedal went soft. First the passenger side ball joint came out, and my girls friend had an old honda wagon that would fit so he just put in the whole rotor axle and ball joint in to save time. But when my pads wore down they were different sizes, so we have him do it right but with a new ball joint and put in new pads as well. But when we go to drive and the pedal then goes almost all the way to the floor with barley any braking power so I have to hit the brakes 75% farther away than normal, and if I apply the brakes to hard the back locks up. I've bled them in the correct order 4 times going through more than a few bottles of fluid with no change. Please help

 

First, is the caliper installed correctly?
Bleeder screw must be higher than the brake fluid chamber or where the brake hose connects to.
Can not bleed the brake properly if the bleeder is on the bottom.

 

welcome to the forum. we all have different ways brakes are bled. i am just curious as to your procedure. please explain how you did your brake bleeding please, and thank you for being patient.

 

Yes the bleeder screw is in the correct position and the caliper was Installed correctly.

 

I had my father press 3 times on the brake pedal then hold it down I then loosened the bleeder screw allowing fluid to drain then tightening it back up, and telling my father to release the pedal. I first only bled the front two calipers, but when than didn't work I started with the back passenger the went to the back driver side then the front passenger side then the front driver side. I did all four another two times.

 

Start engine and see if there is a vacuum leak and if the brake fluid reservoir is full

 

I am from the old school, always attached a hose to the bleeder screw, and other end of tube into a bottle containing brake fluid, when no bubbles appeared, I knew it was bled, Sounds to Me You might still have air!