Van details: 2002 Odyssey LX, power door locks, manual sliding doors.
Problem: last night, when I opened the driver side door with my key, and held the key in open position for a few seconds, only the front driver and passenger door locks opened. Neither the driver side, nor the passenger side sliding door would open. Both remained locked. I tried opening and closing several times with the key in the driver door, but that did not work either. I also tried using the open/close switch on the inside of the driver door. That did not work either. So as of now, both sliding doors are still locked with no way of opening them. Front driver and passenger door locks are working OK. Any suggestions on what to try would be most appreciated. thanks in advance.

 

check to see if your back up fob unlocks the vehicle, check or replace the battery on the fob if not done lately. check all auto door lock unlock fuse, disconnect the battery for a few minutes (be sure to have the code for the radio). rehook and recheck sliding doors.

 

thank you. I bought the van used and it did not come with FOBs, only two keys. So I only use the keys to open the doors. I will check the door lock fuse as you suggest. Is is okay to spray WD40 into the fuse box to clean out the contacts (or some other silicone spray)?

 

I found the solution, and it is absolutely bizarre. As it so happens, over the last two days, the passenger and driver's side sliding doors were behaving erratically when I tried to open using my key. Sometimes they would stay locked. once in a while they would open. the problem was that the insulating protection around the door closing sensor switches had come off due to age (pictrure 1), and they were getting stuck between the sensor and strike plate (picture 2). Solution was to cut off the dangling insulating pieces with scissors (see pictures below). Now I have to find a new insulating rubber boot (left and right side).

insulating rubber boot around door sensors had dried up and is torn, as you can see.


when door closes, the sensors touch these three metal plates, closing the circuit. the torn rubber boot came between the sensors and these plates


so solution was to cut off the torn rubber boot segment, but now I have to find new boots.

 

cheaperhondaparts.com, ebay, salvage yards, many on line honda parts with discounts, glad you found the cause. not advisable to spray q
wd-40 into a fuse box. on the door contacts ok. there are special sprays for cleaning/lube sprays electrical but cost a bit. how do you like your ody. my daughter purchase a 2019 13 cup holders, under floor rotating storage wow

 

I love my 2002 ODY. Value for money, it is the best vehicle buy I have made. I bought it used with very low miles. Now has 175K miles on it. Has never let me down. I take good care of it, changing oil and fluids and filters regularly. After purchase in 2007, I read that these models frequently have transmission problems, and I was afraid mine would act up too. But no problems so far. But it is showing its age. The sliding door problem was the result of crumbling rubber molding. It is also having a strange starting problem. Sometimes (not always), when I turn the key in the ignition, it cranks vigorously, but does not fire. It may do this more than once. But on the second or third try, it always fires. Vehicle runs absolutely smoothly, no hesitation upon acceleration, no rough idling. So nothing to suggest a clogged filter or defective spark plug or coil problem. This has been happening for last six months or so. Am completely stumped as to cause. If you have any ideas, would love to hear.

 

here are a few items i have come accross. key ignition if you have more that one key and a fob, remove all other keys. immobilizer going bad, check battery connection for good contact at gnd, on eng and frame. all cells good on battery, General Info. crank no start is fuel or ignition.

 

along with the intermittent starting problem noted in my earlier post, i find that the ignition key frequently will not turn at first. I have to wrestle with the steering wheel turning it left and right and then only the key gets freed and I can turn the key. Does this have anything to do with the immobilizer you mentioned above? If so, is this an expensive repair?

 

After 1998, immobilizers became mandatory for all newer cars in the USA.
So, does the green key light up when cranking?
If it lights up and then quickly go out then not the immobilizer issue
If it lights up and blinks a few times and stays on then immobilizer issue

Could be time for new spark plugs and/or add a bottle of injector cleaner??

A key that does not turn in the ignition is more of a sign of old age.
Would spray a little oil or WD-40 into cylinder to loosen up the lock pins.