my error, no distributor, coil over.

 

ok the no start is a total no crank situation, not even a click from the starter solenoid.
Jumping the solenoid to battery gets her going every time without fail.
it gets about 5 volts when in the failed state, but thats 5 volts while under load, weve already gone over that, thankyou
So power is getting there, but its just severely restricted.
Does sound like a relay contact doesn't it.
When i turn to start, the start cut relay under the steering wheel clicks nice and audibly, and i can feel it click also. I also hear another relay somewhere over the other side of the dash click, and i suspect that is just something on the ON circuit turning off momentarily while the key is in the start position.
So all thats happen is 2 faint clicks in the cabin, and a measly bit of current making its way to the starter.
To be honest, i haven't tried to pull and replace the starter cut relay yet for a few reasons, 1 , its impossible to get to it because there are tight wiring looms suspended in front of it in the fuse box hole in the dash, i cant get a grab on it, and 2nd reason, is i can feel it clicking.
Is it really the only relay that could possibly be at fault? Or are there others?

 

omg i think i have a theory.
aftermarket starter motor right....
The current going from the key to the starter circuit has to do 2 things.
It has to energise the solenoid, at the same time as branch off and actually energise the start cut relay in order for the previously aforementioned current to even make it to the solenoid.. that means, if either of those 2 paths to ground are more favourable than the other, all the current will go that way. (follow the path of least resistance) if this is a crap starter, maybe it lets just the right amount of current through when hot to draw enough current that the starter relay cant fully close its contacts together, (because its able to flow through the ****ty hot solenoid coil) so u end up with a balancing act, the 2 coils fighting each other over who gets the current.

 

Means starter motor is fine. There is a problem with the circuit from the ignition switch to the starter relay to the transmission safety switch to the starter motor

When there is a battery and a resistor connected to the positive post, measuring from negative post to the resistor will read battery voltage.
But, put a load by putting a test light from the resistor to negative post will load the resistor and the voltage will drop to near zero.
So, reading 5 volts means there is not enough current to power the solenoid. Engine will never crank.

Possible corrosion on the wires of the starter circuit. Or, the contacts on the starter relay is burnt (carbon build up-resistance)

I understand. We always try to do things the easiest way we can.
This is why I suggest cleaning up the ignition wire at the starter solenoid
Then cleaning up the grounding straps on the engine and transmission.
Test again to see if you can get battery voltage at the solenoid

Good luck

 

right, ok and you just reminded me, i did do a voltage test while in the working state, and yes it quickly jumps to just over 11.5 volts during the cranking when everything's working fine. the 5 volts was during the failed state.
I thnk the easiest thing to do right now is jsut run a new wire from the solenoid directly to the key switch, to test all the power supply and earthing. If that starts failing then i know its not the resistor or wiring harness to the solenoid.
I've already done a bunch of reconnecting the starter solenoid coz the previous owners mechanic was , well, a monkey disguised as a human being , and used a 0.2mm terminal lug wire, soldered, YES SOLDERED!! to the existng 2.5mm wire, in order to retrofit the aftermarket starter motor. that tin wire was then pushed up against the block and i figured that was the issue originally.
Thanks A-visitor for clearing up my messy understanding of current and voltage too btw.

 

well i pulled the solenoid wire off, and jumped a wire at the key switch, between the battery wire and the starter wire, and there was a nasty spark, like a short circuit spark. so there is something wrong with the wiring loom and its grounding out somewhere. IN this country whenever u take a vehicle to absolute ANYONE who things they are auto electrical qualified, they just look at you and say GROUNDED, GROUNDED! Now I know why, everything just gets grounded here, its the sole and only mode of failure of anything.
I ran a new wire straight from the solenoid to the switch. as we say in Australia, Problem Solvered.
Bit dangerous, but it'l do.

 

OMG, The ignition switch is not meant to take that much current.
That is why they use a starter relay.
In addition, that by passes the park/neutral safety switch and the circuit fuse.
Never said to do anything like that.
In fact, the proper thing to do is to repair it correctly.
And restore the park/neutral safety switch and the circuit fuse.

 

With all due respect, ( you genuinely deserve it) the ignition switch does actauly take all the current for the starter solenoid by design., check the wiring diagram again.
The current for the starter solenoid and the relay actually comes form the one wire on the key switch mate!
This brain works ok , i assure you haha.
Its a big *** contact and a big *** wire. I assure you, it can, (and is designed,to) take the current.

or hang on, are you thinking i was running th actual starter motor from the switch . in that case, we must laugh, because, now that would be something i would do after a few beers.

 

i must say tho, i am not happy about bypassing the safety of the neutral switch, i do have 4 year old who is interested in everything do, and would love to start a car. i can just see it happening.
Any advice as to what to look for and where?? im probabyl going to have to start pulling dirty grime caked engine parts out to trace this loom, its really not my thing, i do engine rebuilds, and y auto electrical things are more an unwanted hobby. LOL.
See here, dirt is a different kind of dirt. the diesel and other unburned hydrocarbons that pour out of the poorly maintained vehicle here, cake cement dust to everything in the engine bay.
I just look at the wiring loom and my brain puts up this sign saying, THERES NO WAY ANYTHING COULD BE WRONG WITH THAT COMPLICATED MESS.

Is there such thing as a tone generator for a wiring loom so u can send a tone down a wire and detect exactly where it goes?

 

Yes there is. They are called circuit tracers. One creates a tone and the other listens for it.
Sometimes used to find shorts or open in wiring.
Sometimes used to find which circuit breaker is being used

I only say those things cause I can not tell anyone to do something that isn't safe.
Of course you can do whatever you want. It is up to you.
I just don't want responsibility for that.

Good luck