Hi, I am sharing what happened to my 98 CR-V with a no-crank starter condition.

I checked the ignition circuit: all fine. I checked voltage and continuity to the starter: all fine.

What I found out was that I had to measure the voltage drop. Do a 'Voltage drop' search on youtube.

I finally found out that the chassis to transmission cable was bad.

 

That is a good find.
Did you suspect the starter?
If all the voltages were good then it would be suspect.
Did you change it or tested further to find the tranny ground cable was no good?

 

Hi, I suspected the starter, I was not home when this happened, was at a friend's place, nothing to check the electrical, only tools to remove the thing.

I removed and tested it, the motor was bad, solenoid good. Bought another starter from the junk yard, tested it, all ok and installed it. Still no crank.

I am not a professional mechanic and have little knowled of car electrical so I did all the searching and testing to find out the problem.

One end of this ground cable is hidden behind an air vent, could not see it was bad.

 

Then you found it the hard way, through trial and error and visual inspection.
Great catch.
Thanks for the information

 

You are welcome.

I do not really like to post links because eventually the source disappears but this one was the one which helped me the most. I was at the same stage he explains in the first eleven minutes.

 

Yeah, seen his videos.
When there is a no crank, a simple test would be to put a multi meter or test light on it.
Neg or clip end of test light to battery negative post (important it is on post)
The other end on engine block and then crank engine
If the meter reads around 12 volts or test light turns on then bad ground
Then it is a matter of searching for ground fault

 

Hi, A few strands of wire, as you can see on the picture, will be enough to light up the test light but not enough for the starter to turn. This is why the voltage drop test is necessary.

Values vary from one source to the other but a drop of more tha 0.25V on the negative side, and 0.7V ( some say 0.5V ) on the positive side would be too much.

 

The test light is used as a voltage drop tester.
Clip on ground post of battery and the other on the engine.
If it lights up then bad grounds or bad connections/terminals/etc.

A quarter volt drop is nothing.
It is the current restriction that makes the difference.
After all the battery is rated by Cold Cranking Amps and not battery voltage