I bought my Honda civic about two years ago for $2000 and since then have put maybe around an additional $2000 in repairs. Most recently, it started sputtering and shaking while I was idle at a red light and then once I tried accelerating once the light turned green it would stay in place for a couple of seconds and then finally start going. I took it to Pep Boys last Tuesday and after many wrong diagnoses that unfortunately did not fix my car (they replaced spark plug wire set and distributor cap at first and then they replaced a little tube that seemed to not be letting airflow into quite honestly I'm not sure what part) it seems that I need a crank which is going to cost me $1800 with labor. I cannot afford that at that moment and have decided to sell my car for parts. Based on its issues, it is under 200,000 miles what is the most I could get? Feedback will be very much appreciated! I want to make sure I don't under or overestimate my cars value. Thank you!

 

Try calling this guy at Honda Parts. (Marty) 1-(843)-249-2913 Him and his family have dealt in Honda, and Honda Parts for 25 years and are good Honest people. He will probably tell you on the phone exactly what your problem is and sell u the correct part ""CHEAP."" Make sure he knows your not in the same town, so you can't just drive it down to have him look at it.
I wouldn't even read the rest of my post until after you talk to Marty at Honda Parts. He is the MAN when it comes to Hondas. He's forgotten more about Hondas than Ill even know.
If he can't help you, read on read on.
As for the VALUE of your car. 1st.) just a bit of advice, most people that drive Hondas are very Picky about cars, so having the car running in 100% order will help u GREATLY in selling your car in 2 ways.
1) it will sell much quicker if its running correctly. (Unless the repair cost exceeds the difference it would increase the value of the car.) $700 or more, don't fix it. Sell it as is.
2.) It will sell for alot more money if it is working correctly.
Are you out looking to buy someone else's headaches, when you are looking to buy a used car?
Go to www.KBB.com go to the Used car page. Start there, and put your Make, Model, Year, Miles Options, in the boxes, it will take you to Private party Value, rate your car based on what you truley see. Deducte any other issues your car has, dings, dents, non working options, conditon of paint, seats, cleanliness. That will give you a solid $$$ figure, add $2-5 hundred to that, and let the buyer bargain you down to what your least willing to take for the car. If it shows $3500. Is your cars Private party value, ask $3800 OBO or best Offer.
With your car broke like it is its only going to sell for $800-$1000 if it is in good cond. but having issues.

If he can't help you,there should be a code stored in your cars computer that a parts store can read ((free,)) and tell you what it Codes are showing. this will be your
1st. goal. Find out the issue. Whoever got you to buy plugs at the first place had their head up their @55.
As a person, You don't just start taking random pills when your sick, so, if they tell you to possibly try this and that without them being able to say their 95% sure thats the problem. That's asicly what their telling you to do to yur car.
First things first, diagnose the problem before you spend any money on fixing it. It sounds to me that it is a simple problem. Before spending a dime.
1st. Try this. ( take your neg. battery cable off) turn your headlights on to drain the computers micro batteries. Wait 5 min. Connect it back turn lights off 1st.
This will temperarly clear out any codes that are not Hard Codes. Drive it, if it drives fine for a bit then goes back to the problem, you know the problem is that big of a deal.
Your honda has a history of having a (Relay) problem. There located in your fuse box. If you find them, and you see there are two relays that are the same Amp., swap them around, drive it. If your problem is gone go buy a relay, $3-$15 bucks parts store. A relay is a square plastic box inside your fuse box along with fuses,check the fuses just incase, longshot, but it could be a fuse.
2nd. After you get the codes read, I would go to advance auto, and napa or any 2 parts stores, get your codes read first. Don't listen to them about spending money on possible fixes unless the person can tell you 100% it's this or that. Writes the codes down. Go home and look them up online. That will tell you at least what direction to be looking to find the issue..
It sounds to me like your problem is possibly your 1st. PCM, 2nd. PVC, 3rd. CPS, KPS, O2 sensor its related to Fuel Pressure. It's a common problem also. It could also be your fuel filter.
It's not your cam, the symptoms don't match up.
CPS = Crank position sensor
KPS= Knock, position sensor
PVC,= fuel pressure related.
PCM= computer
O2 sensor= common problem, rough idle, rough acceleration, stalling.
The hesitant to go at the stoplight problem really indicates a fuel pressure, or Vacuum problem. The transmissions signal to engage seems like its being delayed, meaning, it is needing a build up in vacuum pressure before the trans will engage.