Persistent MISFIRE After Burnt Valve Repair. ~2013 Accord 2.4l K24W1~
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Persistent MISFIRE After Burnt Valve Repair. ~2013 Accord 2.4l K24W1~
Hey y’all, I am looking for some guidance with finding the cause of a persistent misfire that has been ongoing for over six months and remains unresolved even after correcting a confirmed burnt exhaust valve.
Approximately six months ago, I purchased a used 2013 Honda Accord with a 2.4L, K24W1, 4CYL, Earthdreams Engine. It had a severe misfire and blinking check engine light. At the time, the cause of the misfire was unknown. I initially replaced the spark plugs and ignition coils with no improvement. I then replaced all fuel injectors, but the engine continued to misfire. The vehicle would not rev past 3,000 RPM and exhibited severe stuttering and shaking, particularly when accelerating or placing it in reverse or drive. The vehicle behaved as if it were in limp mode.
I then proceeded with mechanical testing. A compression test that I did revealed that cylinder 4 had approximately 15 psi, while the remaining cylinders were within normal range. I then performed a leak-down test, which showed air escaping through the exhaust (tailpipe) on cylinder 4. Based on these results, I concluded there was a burnt exhaust valve.
I disassembled the engine, removing the valve cover, timing components, and surrounding parts to access the cylinder head. Upon removal of the head, I confirmed that the exhaust valve on cylinder 4 was severely burnt, with a large hole through the valve. The intake valve on cylinder 4 also showed damage, including jagged edges and poor seating, so I replaced both the intake and exhaust valves on that cylinder.
To ensure the cylinder head was fully corrected, I sent it to a professional machine shop. The machine shop performed the following work: all valves were lapped, valve stem heights were checked, new valve stem seals were installed, and the head was checked for flatness and confirmed to be within specification. No issues were reported by the machine shop.
After receiving the head back, I carefully reassembled the engine. Cam timing was verified during installation, and no shortcuts were taken during reassembly.
Following the reassembly, I performed another compression test. Compression is now strong and consistent, showing over 180 psi on all cylinders. Despite this fix, the original issues still remain unchanged. The engine still misfires, the check engine light continues to blink, the engine will not rev past approximately 3,000 RPM, and it shakes heavily at idle and when placed in Drive or Reverse.
At this point, I don’t know where to look. I am seeking input from anyone who might have an idea or know what to do next.
Approximately six months ago, I purchased a used 2013 Honda Accord with a 2.4L, K24W1, 4CYL, Earthdreams Engine. It had a severe misfire and blinking check engine light. At the time, the cause of the misfire was unknown. I initially replaced the spark plugs and ignition coils with no improvement. I then replaced all fuel injectors, but the engine continued to misfire. The vehicle would not rev past 3,000 RPM and exhibited severe stuttering and shaking, particularly when accelerating or placing it in reverse or drive. The vehicle behaved as if it were in limp mode.
I then proceeded with mechanical testing. A compression test that I did revealed that cylinder 4 had approximately 15 psi, while the remaining cylinders were within normal range. I then performed a leak-down test, which showed air escaping through the exhaust (tailpipe) on cylinder 4. Based on these results, I concluded there was a burnt exhaust valve.
I disassembled the engine, removing the valve cover, timing components, and surrounding parts to access the cylinder head. Upon removal of the head, I confirmed that the exhaust valve on cylinder 4 was severely burnt, with a large hole through the valve. The intake valve on cylinder 4 also showed damage, including jagged edges and poor seating, so I replaced both the intake and exhaust valves on that cylinder.
To ensure the cylinder head was fully corrected, I sent it to a professional machine shop. The machine shop performed the following work: all valves were lapped, valve stem heights were checked, new valve stem seals were installed, and the head was checked for flatness and confirmed to be within specification. No issues were reported by the machine shop.
After receiving the head back, I carefully reassembled the engine. Cam timing was verified during installation, and no shortcuts were taken during reassembly.
Following the reassembly, I performed another compression test. Compression is now strong and consistent, showing over 180 psi on all cylinders. Despite this fix, the original issues still remain unchanged. The engine still misfires, the check engine light continues to blink, the engine will not rev past approximately 3,000 RPM, and it shakes heavily at idle and when placed in Drive or Reverse.
At this point, I don’t know where to look. I am seeking input from anyone who might have an idea or know what to do next.
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Mar 12, 2024 01:32 PM