Hello,

I have a 2004 Honda Accord that started giving me intermittent starting problems about a month ago.

I came out from a store and tried to start the car 3x before it finally started. I did not hear any clicking sound. It was really acting/sounding like the battery was on its last leg (but the battery isn't even a year old).

I get home and started the car about 6 times. It only failed to start once, with the same symptoms.

I cleaned all the battery connections and even removed the negative cable from the body and sanded down to bare metal to make sure I had a good connection. No problems for a month.

This past Thursday I had problems getting the car to start again. It took about 3 attempts. I decided to replace the start relay and replaced that Friday. After doing so, it seemed to get even worse (and this was an OEM relay). I popped the old relay in thinking maybe I got a dud, but the same symptoms there. I was able to get the car started by jumping it, so I ran up to O'Reilly and they tested the battery, starter and alternator. Everything looked good to them.

When I got home, the car barely turned over. I have the same battery in our 2014 Honda (also less than a year old), so I flipped batteries between the cars. BOTH batteries will start the 2014 without any hesitation. NEITHER battery will start the 2004 now.

At this point, the car is just barely even trying to turn over. Is this most likely a starter issue (despite what O'Rilly's test equipment is showing), or could it be a wiring/voltage drop issue? I know it's a major job replacing the starter and hoping that's not the issue. With this year Honda, the starter is inaccessible for testing (it requires pulling the exhaust manifold away from the engine block).

Thanks,

Andy

 

Confusing. It turns over slowly one time and it does nothing another. I was thinking ignition switch until you said 'When I got home, the car barely turned over.'

 

Question, ..
1. How did O'reilly test the starter? In the vehicle or bench test?
Bench test is no load testing?
2. Have you tried to turn the engine over by hand to see if there is lots of resistance to movement?
The engine or one of the accessories is providing resistance to turning?
3. Could it be leaky injectors that is hydro locking the cylinders?
This is unlikely but have seen it happen?
4. Could it be the ignition switch?
Relatively inexpensive replacement for DIYer?
But, may not be your issue?
5. Did you try to clean up battery chassis ground and check engine block for good ground?
While cranking and engine is struggling to turn, put voltmeter on neg battery and engine block.
Both are grounds. If there is any voltage reading above 1 volt then you have ground issue.

If engine and electrical circuits are okay then, simply from the symptoms, it is a sign the starter is going bad.

 

They tested it in the car. But I question how accurate that test can be. They attached their equipment, then had me start the car.

I haven't tried turning it over by hand. How would I do that?

I had thought about the switch, but based on what I've read and seen, it doesn't exhibit the symptoms to indicate a bad ignition switch.

I removed the negative cable from the car's body, sanded that area down and reattached the cable. I also clean the battery posts and the connectors that attach to them.

I did a voltage check last night from the negative post of the battery to the engine. It was 1.2mv initially and jumped to just 45mv when I had my wife try to start the car (and at that point, it didn't even try to turn over, but the radio did come on still).

 

I do not know how good they are in doing these type of tests. And testing on intermittent issue will not give you the best results.

You can put a socket or wrench on one of the accessory pulleys and turn the engine in direction of normal rotation. Make sure the key is out/off.
Should provide some resistance but still be easy to turn.

Electrical issues can do all sorts of strange stuff. May not be your issue but keep it mind just in case.

Yeah, usually that is the first thing I do. Clean battery posts and cable terminals. Follow negative cable to chassis and clean contacts.

That means no voltage drop and not a ground problem. If you can access the starter (don't know why the starter is hidden on Hondas) apply 12 volts to starter solenoid. If engine cranks then possibly ignition wire has issue. I recently replaced my starter and it was the same symptoms. Intermittent. Then when I was in the supermarket parking lot, it failed completely. Luckily I have road side assistance and got it towed to the garage Paid by insurance. Then it cost me $350 to replace. Parts and labor. Good luck to you.

 

Unfortunately, the starter is located behind the manifold. I was able to turn the engine no problem, so it's not seized. They're calling for rain all day today, so I'll pull the starter tomorrow and run it up to O'Reilly or Autozone for testing tomorrow.

 

I "thought" I'd just pull the starter and get O'Reilly or AutoZone to test it, but I can't break that 17mm bolt (the outer bolt on the starter) and the angle is difficult. I'm using a "wobbler" (universal adapter that allows you to get any angle you need) and two extensions, but I'm running up to Home Depot now and buying a 20" extension to allow me to get more torque on it (and extend it beyond the manifold). So close yet so far.

• It's definitely not the battery (since both batteries start my 2014 but neither starts the 2014).
  
• Unless I got a bad (new) OEM starter relay, it's not that.
  
• I did a voltage check last night from the negative post of the battery to the engine. It was 1.2mv initially and jumped to just 45mv when I had my wife try to start the car (and at that point, it didn't even try to turn over, but the radio did come on still).
  
• The engine isn't seized, as I can put a socket and ratchet on one of the pulley nuts and rotate it no problem.

 

Got the old starter out and took it to both O'Reilly and AutoZone. It failed at both places. It wasn't spinning properly nor "popping out" like it should. The car has 252,000 miles on it, so I'm seriously considering just getting a Duralast Gold at Autozone ($225). Online Honda places want over $400.

 

Turned out OK this way. A proper voltage test would have reveled the problem without having to pull it. It's going to be the switch in the starter that is going bad. I'd rebuild it.

 

That is great. Happy for you. I did the same when I got the starter replaced bought it at Autozone. I still do not know why they put the starter in such a difficult place.