HELP
All different steps taken so far

Replaced both center door hinges.

Found conflicting door rehomeing steps, RE: first is Fuse 7 main box only drivers side.,

another was 7 &13 only
yet another was
#7 passenger #7 drivers
#7 & #15 primary underhood fuse panel.
Did all multiple times.

Found a TSB talking about water leaking around drivers side door track where rear cable enters going into motor, water can leak gets into harness connector #77 can cause a number of weird issues.

found where it could be a bad micro switch in rear latch assembly. Tested all both sides all good.
I get no fault codes in the door system micu never had any dummy light.
Another step I found was the rubber bumpers 1 top and
1 bottom both sides if missing

BOTH DOORS WILL NOT OPEN WITH THE HANDLES INSIDE OR OUT AND WILL NOT WITH DASH SWITCH OR REMOTE.

CAN MANUALLY OPEN AND CLOSE.
BOTH DOORS WHEN CLOSED THE REAR LATCH MOTOR SUCKS DOOR IN CLOSED THEN
2 SECONDS LATER IT RELEASES.

SOMETHING IS GROUNDING OUT CAUSING A BATTERY DRAIN AND ALREADY CHECKED THE AC RELAY THATS NOT THE ISSUE.

JUST DID TIMING BELT WATER PUMP, TUNEUP ECT. $1000
TIRED OF GETTING CALL FROM WIFE VAN WONT START.

HELP PLEASE

ANYONE GOT ANY OTHER AREAS
I MIGHT CHECK.

 

Is there a button that puts the sliding door into manual mode?
Could it be stuck in manual mode?

The reset by removing the number seven fuse inside the driver's side cabin fuse box (near the e-brake, 7.5amp) usually works??
Remove panel cover and remove driver's side fuse panel
Pull out fuse number seven
Slide button to manual mode
Insert key and turn to on position (do not start engine)
Slide button to auto mode
Replace the number seven fuse
Test

If that doesn't work then it could be a micro switch in the rear door latch?
But on both doors?
Anyway, here is video on youtube
Hope it helps