Starting issues on an '07
Hello folks,
Perhaps some of you might have an opinion on this:
My wife has an '07 that she loves. The car has been good to us. We'd like to keep it running. Approx 160,000 miles.
When she goes to start the car, one of the following might happen:
1. The car might start.
2. When turning the key, the car might not start while making a "buzzing" noise. Repeated attempts will eventually result in no buzzing noise and the car starts.
3. When turning the key, the car might not start while making a "clunking" noise that seems to come from the steering column. Repeated attempts will eventually result in either no clunking noise and the car starts, or one clunking noise and the car starts.
Previously it would take two or three turns of the key to get a starting condition. Today it took 6 or 7 turns. They were all buzzing noises, then the one clunk and the car started.
This happens with both the original key and the secondary key, which I can only say has been used "a lot" less.
We're not driving the car now, and I'm hesitant to try to start it too often in case I need to take it to a shop, which will likely be the case. I am interested in what you folks think.
I'm thinking the ignition lock cylinder, if that's the right terminology. There's not much on YouTube about this.
Our first thought was that her key might be worn, but it's the same with both keys. Not sure how much a replacement key is but if it's not cheap it might be better to spend that money on a pro diag and fix.
Well. That's the story.
Thank you for any suggestions.
Peace,
Dave
Perhaps some of you might have an opinion on this:
My wife has an '07 that she loves. The car has been good to us. We'd like to keep it running. Approx 160,000 miles.
When she goes to start the car, one of the following might happen:
1. The car might start.
2. When turning the key, the car might not start while making a "buzzing" noise. Repeated attempts will eventually result in no buzzing noise and the car starts.
3. When turning the key, the car might not start while making a "clunking" noise that seems to come from the steering column. Repeated attempts will eventually result in either no clunking noise and the car starts, or one clunking noise and the car starts.
Previously it would take two or three turns of the key to get a starting condition. Today it took 6 or 7 turns. They were all buzzing noises, then the one clunk and the car started.
This happens with both the original key and the secondary key, which I can only say has been used "a lot" less.
We're not driving the car now, and I'm hesitant to try to start it too often in case I need to take it to a shop, which will likely be the case. I am interested in what you folks think.
I'm thinking the ignition lock cylinder, if that's the right terminology. There's not much on YouTube about this.
Our first thought was that her key might be worn, but it's the same with both keys. Not sure how much a replacement key is but if it's not cheap it might be better to spend that money on a pro diag and fix.
Well. That's the story.
Thank you for any suggestions.
Peace,
Dave
Last edited by 2007CRV; Apr 23, 2022 at 02:32 PM. Reason: Edited to include mileage
Are we going to throw darts and see what sticks? You will want to do a test or two before going into this blind regardless what you may hear from people on here. Those with thousands of posts may not know as much as you do. They like to hear themselves talk as if they know something. On the other hand not all are like that.
Let's start with the basics. How old is the battery? Clunking in the column does the key turn freely when this happens? Can you record the noises for us? This will get us started.
Let's start with the basics. How old is the battery? Clunking in the column does the key turn freely when this happens? Can you record the noises for us? This will get us started.
Thanks - the battery is two years old, almost to the month. The key turns freely.
It had not occurred to me that audio or video clips could be attached...duhh...
I got the buzzing noise but it didn't make the clunking.
The second video is mainly to get the dash lights, in case those are of interest.
It had not occurred to me that audio or video clips could be attached...duhh...
I got the buzzing noise but it didn't make the clunking.
The second video is mainly to get the dash lights, in case those are of interest.
Think about what you are saying.
Replaced the ignition switch and now it no longer buzzes.
How does the switch cause buzzing?
I do not know. I just know it does.
I do not need to know what is the reason for it to buzz.
I only needed to find the correct method to get rid of the buzzing.
Next time think about what you are saying.
If a switch has power does not mean it is working
A switch needs an input and an output
Or power and load to ground. A complete loop.
A switch has contacts that can have corrosion or be burnt.
That could mean it has power but nothing is coming out or very little.
Thought the resident electrical engineer would know that???
If a switch has power does not mean it is working
A switch needs an input and an output
Or power and load to ground. A complete loop.
A switch has contacts that can have corrosion or be burnt.
That could mean it has power but nothing is coming out or very little.
Thought the resident electrical engineer would know that???
Power? Ground? Why do you apply these to a switch? You don't know what you are talking about.
This is the only part you have correct.
Last edited by grcauto; Apr 27, 2022 at 06:45 AM.
A switch determines choice of the path for electrical current to flow or not (for example, three way switch).
For an electrical engineer, you really need to brush up on the basics.
It has always been a waste of time talking with you.
Thanks for reaffirming that truth.
Last edited by avisitor; Apr 28, 2022 at 12:21 AM.
The switch makes the choice? Do you have any idea how a three way switch works? They are two switches in one frame. That's all they are. You know words about electrical but you do not know electrical at all.


