More than likely this guy is more confused than ever due to your many words without any meaning or help.

 

You do not care about helping people.
You only care about yourself and what you think is right.
Again you prove there is no sense in talking with you.

 

I will call out you or anyone else who willingly cause people to waste time and money with bogus information all to make yourselves sound wise.
Leave the electronics to those who understand it.
Talk to Sparky about it.
You know him over at Hyundai.
Stick to what you know.

 

You are the one wasting people's time with your incessant bickering.
Go away. You are not helping anyone here.

Back to the OP.
Did you try replacing the ignition switch?

 

Quit quoting me and stick to what you know and leave the electronics to people who understand it.

 

A closed mind is like a closed book
It is just a block of wood.
You do not want to understand anything but your own words.
Go be that block of wood.

 

Quit trolling me. What you know about electronics would fit into a thimble.

 

Hey guys,
Thanks for the suggestions. I had not know that a relay could make a buzzing noise. Now I know.
Also thanks for reminding me to start with basic troubleshooting.
I found a couple of YouTube videos, one which suggested that it might be the ignition switch and he tested his switch with a device I don't have. So I thought it might have been that.
Also thought it might have been the relay, based on grcauto and one or two YT videos. I thought I'd be smart and take the relay out, and either test it or replace it with the power windows relay to see if the starting problem was fixed.
Whichever Honda engineer put this fusebox next to the emergency brake pedal and up where you can't reach it must be the same one who put the starter motor under the manifold.

I could touch the relay but not get a grip on it. Tried gently with long nose pliers but it didn't want to budge and I didn't want to force it. Couldn't grip it with that very well anyway.
Tried to gently pull the wires underneath the fuse buy pulling on the - sorry for not knowing the terminology - white plastic that surrounded the wires. Thought if I could take this out I might have room to grab the fuse.
Had to quit for the day. Went to roll up the passenger side window and it wouldn't work from the driver's side control, but it did work from the passenger door.
Decided to be smart again and figured since touching the relay and wires made the pwr window not work, pushing them in a little might correct the problem. Instead, it made it so the pwr window doesn't work from either the driver or passenger door control But at least the window was up.
I've gotten the ignition switch off and back on ok for something else in the past, but I figured that 1. I wasn't going to get that relay out, 2, we wanted to drive that car out of town later in the week, and 3, since I had broken one thing already I didn't want to break anything else.

So I took it to a local repair shop that we've been happy with in the past.
They diagnosed a bad battery (two years old to the month) and a bad starter motor.
I told them they had replaced the starter last October - they said they'd do the starter under warranty and the battery $100. I asked about a two year old battery and he said something might have drained the battery.

After they fixed it - the charge was still $100 - he mentioned that the starter warranty was only 90 days but they'd replaced it anyway. He said they recharged the battery and it seemed ok. The 100 was for labor, which I'm ok with. When they replaced the starter last Oct. labor was $260.
Drove the car 350 miles ok, although there is a check engine light - today or tomorrow I'll take it to Advance and have them read it.
The passenger window can wait. When I get around to looking at it I'll start with basic troubleshooting.
The car has been starting just fine, so that issue is no more.
Thanks again for the suggestions - sorry for the long post!

 

Glad to hear.

 

Still being that block of wood?? Fine. Be that way.