Some Engine Help please
#1
10-12-2009, 07:53 PM
Some Engine Help please
I have a 1991 Honda Accord LX.
I purchased it from one of those Official Police auctions for $925 which I thought wasn't bad since the tires were still on, okay exterior, only broken passenger mirror, didn't make a sound when they cranked it.
1st day I purchased it, battery died which is common for sitting so long. - replaced it with a duralast from Autzone.
2nd Radiator fan started going bad and make screeching noises. (noticed previous owner hooked up a red wire directly to the fuse box to keep it running when the car is on...is that okay?)
3rd day realized AC was missing.
4th day Drove about 24 miles and stopped to eat, it was hot as heck and the car didn't start. Lights went on when I turned the key and everything, even the radiator fan was going, but no engine. I let it sit for an hour and it started up again fine. No whining or anything.
5th day ran fine for about 20 miles.
6th day the fan starting screeching again. And yes I'm sure its the fan and not the belts.
7th day lo and behold it did not start. Only the lights went on. I replaced the spark plugs even had the motor oil done. Replace air filter. Checked other oils. (power steering needs to replaced again but I doubt that's the issue).
Other symptoms - Occasionally the car seemed to tug when reaching around 40mph but only briefly (prob transmission or alignment?)
Speedometer does not work sometimes
Fuel seems to rarely mark... I never seem to loose gas past the mid mark...it just stays there.
S light is blinking but i think it has to do with the speedometer.
Engine makes no sound but I do believe I can hear the Fuel Injection when i hit the gas pedal. So I'm going to assume fuel injection is fine?
Any help? I'll answer everything that needs to be known. I'm a student on a budget and I do have around another $1000 to repair this car.
Note: I did purchase the Owner's Repair manual, so maybe if you give me an idea I can look it up in my book and try it...
I purchased it from one of those Official Police auctions for $925 which I thought wasn't bad since the tires were still on, okay exterior, only broken passenger mirror, didn't make a sound when they cranked it.
1st day I purchased it, battery died which is common for sitting so long. - replaced it with a duralast from Autzone.
2nd Radiator fan started going bad and make screeching noises. (noticed previous owner hooked up a red wire directly to the fuse box to keep it running when the car is on...is that okay?)
3rd day realized AC was missing.
4th day Drove about 24 miles and stopped to eat, it was hot as heck and the car didn't start. Lights went on when I turned the key and everything, even the radiator fan was going, but no engine. I let it sit for an hour and it started up again fine. No whining or anything.
5th day ran fine for about 20 miles.
6th day the fan starting screeching again. And yes I'm sure its the fan and not the belts.
7th day lo and behold it did not start. Only the lights went on. I replaced the spark plugs even had the motor oil done. Replace air filter. Checked other oils. (power steering needs to replaced again but I doubt that's the issue).
Other symptoms - Occasionally the car seemed to tug when reaching around 40mph but only briefly (prob transmission or alignment?)
Speedometer does not work sometimes
Fuel seems to rarely mark... I never seem to loose gas past the mid mark...it just stays there.
S light is blinking but i think it has to do with the speedometer.
Engine makes no sound but I do believe I can hear the Fuel Injection when i hit the gas pedal. So I'm going to assume fuel injection is fine?
Any help? I'll answer everything that needs to be known. I'm a student on a budget and I do have around another $1000 to repair this car.
Note: I did purchase the Owner's Repair manual, so maybe if you give me an idea I can look it up in my book and try it...
Last edited by rebelagent; 10-12-2009 at 08:00 PM.
#2
10-14-2009, 01:45 AM
1 have the alternator checked as well. for some reason almost every car that i've purchased all required me to buy a new alternator and battery. go figure.
2 hondas run pretty stable when it comes to heat. the only time i every had an issue was because i needed a new radiator and thermostate.
3 long tedious task of checking your electrical. have fun. check your ignition module & coil along with your spark plug wires to be within speck. if your going to keep that car for a while spend a little and get lifetime warranty replacement parts if you can.
when you turn the key is the lights flickering if you jiggle the key? i had a similar problem and the ignition switch was the culprit.
with any "new" used car. give everything a once over.
hope this helps.
2 hondas run pretty stable when it comes to heat. the only time i every had an issue was because i needed a new radiator and thermostate.
3 long tedious task of checking your electrical. have fun. check your ignition module & coil along with your spark plug wires to be within speck. if your going to keep that car for a while spend a little and get lifetime warranty replacement parts if you can.
when you turn the key is the lights flickering if you jiggle the key? i had a similar problem and the ignition switch was the culprit.
with any "new" used car. give everything a once over.
hope this helps.
#3
10-14-2009, 05:51 AM
welcome to the forum. will try to answer some of your questions, but may need more info. 1. when you replaced your battery with new, did you clean both of your terminals before reinstallation? ( will cause light to go on, but not start or clicking, or turn over the engine. ) 2. Red wire from fuse to fan is due to the temp sensor is bad, motor is good, but now the screetching noise, motor is going bad, get a good used or rebuilt, or go to junk yard. ( mine cost 200.00 for the dc motor.) if your have duel fans for a/c, check the part nbr, you might just swap motors.. 3. will get hot in the summer with no a/c. 4. If your battery terminals were cleaned, it could be starter, if the starter turned but the engine did not start, it could be the main relay. 5. good for 20 miles. 6. fan has no belts, so motor is going bad, dc motor. 7. again, did the starter turn the engine, if not, starter going bad. If starter turns the engine but no start, possible main relay or coil. check for spark.
tug to the left or right possible wheel alignment, tug when trans shifts check fluid, conditon and smell fluid, brown and burnt smell, change with honda trans fluid. How many miles does the car have? When you first turn the key on, you will hear the relays click and the fuel pump turn on, should only be monentary if engine not drawing fuel to run. s light blinking usually is the transmission control module.
Go to autozone.com and register for free and go to repairs to assist you. Go to hondaautomotiveparts.com to view parts.
tug to the left or right possible wheel alignment, tug when trans shifts check fluid, conditon and smell fluid, brown and burnt smell, change with honda trans fluid. How many miles does the car have? When you first turn the key on, you will hear the relays click and the fuel pump turn on, should only be monentary if engine not drawing fuel to run. s light blinking usually is the transmission control module.
Go to autozone.com and register for free and go to repairs to assist you. Go to hondaautomotiveparts.com to view parts.
Last edited by acmech52; 10-14-2009 at 06:34 AM.
#4
10-17-2009, 02:47 PM
welcome to the forum. will try to answer some of your questions, but may need more info. 1. when you replaced your battery with new, did you clean both of your terminals before reinstallation? ( will cause light to go on, but not start or clicking, or turn over the engine. ) 2. Red wire from fuse to fan is due to the temp sensor is bad, motor is good, but now the screetching noise, motor is going bad, get a good used or rebuilt, or go to junk yard. ( mine cost 200.00 for the dc motor.) if your have duel fans for a/c, check the part nbr, you might just swap motors.. 3. will get hot in the summer with no a/c. 4. If your battery terminals were cleaned, it could be starter, if the starter turned but the engine did not start, it could be the main relay. 5. good for 20 miles. 6. fan has no belts, so motor is going bad, dc motor. 7. again, did the starter turn the engine, if not, starter going bad. If starter turns the engine but no start, possible main relay or coil. check for spark.
tug to the left or right possible wheel alignment, tug when trans shifts check fluid, conditon and smell fluid, brown and burnt smell, change with honda trans fluid. How many miles does the car have? When you first turn the key on, you will hear the relays click and the fuel pump turn on, should only be monentary if engine not drawing fuel to run. s light blinking usually is the transmission control module.
Go to autozone.com and register for free and go to repairs to assist you. Go to hondaautomotiveparts.com to view parts.
tug to the left or right possible wheel alignment, tug when trans shifts check fluid, conditon and smell fluid, brown and burnt smell, change with honda trans fluid. How many miles does the car have? When you first turn the key on, you will hear the relays click and the fuel pump turn on, should only be monentary if engine not drawing fuel to run. s light blinking usually is the transmission control module.
Go to autozone.com and register for free and go to repairs to assist you. Go to hondaautomotiveparts.com to view parts.
If the starter does not make a sound I have a feeling its worn down and not oxidized, so I may just have to replace it entirely at home instead of getting a mechanic to do it. Which means I have to purchase more tools lol. My dad was a mechanic and I inherited his tools...which I've found have now been stolen! I have one screwdriver in a large old colman's tool box... So I have to go get the right tool to get it out now. I have a feeling I may need to get a jack to get under the car and remove the other two screws to get the starter out...
1 have the alternator checked as well. for some reason almost every car that i've purchased all required me to buy a new alternator and battery. go figure.
2 hondas run pretty stable when it comes to heat. the only time i every had an issue was because i needed a new radiator and thermostate.
3 long tedious task of checking your electrical. have fun. check your ignition module & coil along with your spark plug wires to be within speck. if your going to keep that car for a while spend a little and get lifetime warranty replacement parts if you can.
when you turn the key is the lights flickering if you jiggle the key? i had a similar problem and the ignition switch was the culprit.
with any "new" used car. give everything a once over.
hope this helps.
2 hondas run pretty stable when it comes to heat. the only time i every had an issue was because i needed a new radiator and thermostate.
3 long tedious task of checking your electrical. have fun. check your ignition module & coil along with your spark plug wires to be within speck. if your going to keep that car for a while spend a little and get lifetime warranty replacement parts if you can.
when you turn the key is the lights flickering if you jiggle the key? i had a similar problem and the ignition switch was the culprit.
with any "new" used car. give everything a once over.
hope this helps.
Last edited by rebelagent; 10-17-2009 at 02:49 PM.
#5
10-18-2009, 06:06 PM
Some Engine Help please
Im sorry i cant be of any further help, even telling you where to buy an engine here in italy would turn out to be really expensive because of shipping costs.
#8
11-16-2009, 08:44 PM
It was the starter. I didn't whack it hard enough. I got it replaced and my fan fixed. But now I find out that there's at least 3 electrical shorts causing my turn signal to continually beep now (not blink but just beep). And possibly draining my battery.
#9
11-19-2009, 09:59 PM
Ok next crazy thing your going to want do to trace down a possible draw on electrical system is to:
1) Disconnect the negative terminal.
2) Take a test light and hook it up between the the terminal on the battery and the wire itself.
3) (with the key off and out of the ignition and the doors closed) the test light should be out. IF the light is on then you have a draw.
4) Start by pulling fuses under the hood. (these are the easiest to get to and you don't have to keep opening and shutting the door)
5) If you pull a fuse and the light goes out then you know what circuit to start looking for the short on.
If this doesn't work with the fuses under the hood then move into the ones under the dash. This can be a pain in the but because you need to open and close the door. (The Dome light turning on creates a draw and makes you test light light up)
Once you figure out what circuit the short is on use your manual chilton's, haynes and look up the wiring diagrams to help figure out what things you need to unplug. EXAMPLE:
You pulled the fuse to the RADIO. Look up in the manual and find out that fuse controls: Radio, Cigarette lighter, center console lighting.
Replace the fuse and start by disconnecting the radio. did the test light go out? if yes the you need to find out what's up the radio or the wiring? If no disconnect the lighter. Did the test light go out? If yes then you need to figure out what's wrong the wiring or the lighter. and work your way down the list. Again this is just an example. Hope you can figure out what your draw is and hope that this helps.
1) Disconnect the negative terminal.
2) Take a test light and hook it up between the the terminal on the battery and the wire itself.
3) (with the key off and out of the ignition and the doors closed) the test light should be out. IF the light is on then you have a draw.
4) Start by pulling fuses under the hood. (these are the easiest to get to and you don't have to keep opening and shutting the door)
5) If you pull a fuse and the light goes out then you know what circuit to start looking for the short on.
If this doesn't work with the fuses under the hood then move into the ones under the dash. This can be a pain in the but because you need to open and close the door. (The Dome light turning on creates a draw and makes you test light light up)
Once you figure out what circuit the short is on use your manual chilton's, haynes and look up the wiring diagrams to help figure out what things you need to unplug. EXAMPLE:
You pulled the fuse to the RADIO. Look up in the manual and find out that fuse controls: Radio, Cigarette lighter, center console lighting.
Replace the fuse and start by disconnecting the radio. did the test light go out? if yes the you need to find out what's up the radio or the wiring? If no disconnect the lighter. Did the test light go out? If yes then you need to figure out what's wrong the wiring or the lighter. and work your way down the list. Again this is just an example. Hope you can figure out what your draw is and hope that this helps.
#10
11-30-2009, 11:35 AM
Ok next crazy thing your going to want do to trace down a possible draw on electrical system is to:
1) Disconnect the negative terminal.
2) Take a test light and hook it up between the the terminal on the battery and the wire itself.
3) (with the key off and out of the ignition and the doors closed) the test light should be out. IF the light is on then you have a draw.
4) Start by pulling fuses under the hood. (these are the easiest to get to and you don't have to keep opening and shutting the door)
5) If you pull a fuse and the light goes out then you know what circuit to start looking for the short on.
If this doesn't work with the fuses under the hood then move into the ones under the dash. This can be a pain in the but because you need to open and close the door. (The Dome light turning on creates a draw and makes you test light light up)
Once you figure out what circuit the short is on use your manual chilton's, haynes and look up the wiring diagrams to help figure out what things you need to unplug. EXAMPLE:
You pulled the fuse to the RADIO. Look up in the manual and find out that fuse controls: Radio, Cigarette lighter, center console lighting.
Replace the fuse and start by disconnecting the radio. did the test light go out? if yes the you need to find out what's up the radio or the wiring? If no disconnect the lighter. Did the test light go out? If yes then you need to figure out what's wrong the wiring or the lighter. and work your way down the list. Again this is just an example. Hope you can figure out what your draw is and hope that this helps.
1) Disconnect the negative terminal.
2) Take a test light and hook it up between the the terminal on the battery and the wire itself.
3) (with the key off and out of the ignition and the doors closed) the test light should be out. IF the light is on then you have a draw.
4) Start by pulling fuses under the hood. (these are the easiest to get to and you don't have to keep opening and shutting the door)
5) If you pull a fuse and the light goes out then you know what circuit to start looking for the short on.
If this doesn't work with the fuses under the hood then move into the ones under the dash. This can be a pain in the but because you need to open and close the door. (The Dome light turning on creates a draw and makes you test light light up)
Once you figure out what circuit the short is on use your manual chilton's, haynes and look up the wiring diagrams to help figure out what things you need to unplug. EXAMPLE:
You pulled the fuse to the RADIO. Look up in the manual and find out that fuse controls: Radio, Cigarette lighter, center console lighting.
Replace the fuse and start by disconnecting the radio. did the test light go out? if yes the you need to find out what's up the radio or the wiring? If no disconnect the lighter. Did the test light go out? If yes then you need to figure out what's wrong the wiring or the lighter. and work your way down the list. Again this is just an example. Hope you can figure out what your draw is and hope that this helps.
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