06 pilot EX-L 2WD: Luke Warm Heat
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06 pilot EX-L 2WD: Luke Warm Heat
I have the 06 pilot EX-L 2WD. My issue now is that the heater blows lukewarm air. Strangely enough, I recently changed the front blower and when I plugged it in the heat blew super hot and I immediately switched to cold, but the air was lukewarm. So, I switched back to heat and the heat was back to lukewarm. So, I switched back to cold and it was ice cold again. So switched back to heat and it was back to luke warm again. And it's been like that ever since.
Here is the back story:
About a year ago i suspected the radiator was leaking (spring time). I added a stop leak and hadn't had a leak problem since, but months later I noticed the heat was lukewarm. I figured the stop leak clogged the thermostat. Changed the thermostat but it came without a gasket; so, I used rtv. No change in heat temp. Figured air bubbles. No dice. So a few weeks later, figured the heater core was clogged or the rtv became an issue some how. I called myself back flushing the core with hot water. The water went through and out clear. I looked at the blend door actuator as I turned the climate dial - it moved full range. Also, change the cabin filter. While in there, looked at the core - still shiny. It the mist of all that, I came across this forum and all in all a found water leaking - so now I'm thinking my pump is going out causing a lack of pressure needed to move the coolant to heater core (plus when hot I noticed that the coolant just sits in the radiator rather than flowing through - failing pump, right?). Come to find out the heater control valve was leaking. So I've dismissed the pump direction, replaced the control valve. No change. To sum it up so far:
-Changed the cabin air filter
-Flushed and back flushed the core three different times. Second time was with Prestone Coolant flush.
-Attempted the burping deal (multiple times)
-Manual moved the blend door (with and without the car running) Moved as expected.
-Changed the thermostat (again) with the proper gasket.
No signs of coolant leaks.
-Found I need a new resistor for the rear blower. I bypassed the resistor to test the blower - it only blows cold (not sure if it's only blowing cold due to bypassing the resistor).
And here I am. Is it possible for the actuator to move properly but still be the culprit somehow (signal wise, maybe)? I'm also not ruling out having more than one culprit (weak water pump, actuator, climate control panel dying, etc.)
Oh, and I recently noticed that the temp does not real start to change from cold to heat until the dial reaches mid-way. The mid-way temp stays the same throughout to max heat - leading me on the climate control signal side. All of this have leaning to the "let the shop/dealer tell me what the problem is and go from there". The issue with that is the dishonesty in the mechanic world - especially when the customer is suspected to only what to know the problem rather than have them do the repair. That's so annoying.
Any ideas, tips, or questions/comments that might help get this heat issue resolved?
Here is the back story:
About a year ago i suspected the radiator was leaking (spring time). I added a stop leak and hadn't had a leak problem since, but months later I noticed the heat was lukewarm. I figured the stop leak clogged the thermostat. Changed the thermostat but it came without a gasket; so, I used rtv. No change in heat temp. Figured air bubbles. No dice. So a few weeks later, figured the heater core was clogged or the rtv became an issue some how. I called myself back flushing the core with hot water. The water went through and out clear. I looked at the blend door actuator as I turned the climate dial - it moved full range. Also, change the cabin filter. While in there, looked at the core - still shiny. It the mist of all that, I came across this forum and all in all a found water leaking - so now I'm thinking my pump is going out causing a lack of pressure needed to move the coolant to heater core (plus when hot I noticed that the coolant just sits in the radiator rather than flowing through - failing pump, right?). Come to find out the heater control valve was leaking. So I've dismissed the pump direction, replaced the control valve. No change. To sum it up so far:
-Changed the cabin air filter
-Flushed and back flushed the core three different times. Second time was with Prestone Coolant flush.
-Attempted the burping deal (multiple times)
-Manual moved the blend door (with and without the car running) Moved as expected.
-Changed the thermostat (again) with the proper gasket.
No signs of coolant leaks.
-Found I need a new resistor for the rear blower. I bypassed the resistor to test the blower - it only blows cold (not sure if it's only blowing cold due to bypassing the resistor).
And here I am. Is it possible for the actuator to move properly but still be the culprit somehow (signal wise, maybe)? I'm also not ruling out having more than one culprit (weak water pump, actuator, climate control panel dying, etc.)
Oh, and I recently noticed that the temp does not real start to change from cold to heat until the dial reaches mid-way. The mid-way temp stays the same throughout to max heat - leading me on the climate control signal side. All of this have leaning to the "let the shop/dealer tell me what the problem is and go from there". The issue with that is the dishonesty in the mechanic world - especially when the customer is suspected to only what to know the problem rather than have them do the repair. That's so annoying.
Any ideas, tips, or questions/comments that might help get this heat issue resolved?
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gonzo6580
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Nov 19, 2009 09:40 PM